Africa's Big Three

Day 1: Arrive Nairobi, transfer to Embu

Rendezvous at Nairobi Airport in the early morning. After meeting the guide, KE Land Only package services begin with a transfer to a Nairobi hotel for a few hours rest and an early breakfast. After breakfast, we make the 3-hour drive northwards through farmland and banana plantations to the town of Embu on the southern edge of the Mount Kenya National Park. We check in at a simple hotel with a pleasant garden and the rest of the day is at leisure. Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B,L,D)

Day 2: Transfer to Chogoria Gate

After breakfast at our hotel, we complete our approach, with good views of the mountain ahead of us. Arriving at Chogoria, we swap to specialist 4WD vehicles for the final 30 kilometre drive up a rough and muddy road to our overnight halt. We may have to walk some of this rough road if the vehicles get stuck. We stay overnight in a 'banda' (cottage) on the lower slopes of Mount Kenya at around 3000 metres. We meet our trekking team here and also have the chance to make a short walking tour away from the bandas, in search of wildlife. There are buffalo, klippspringer (antelope) colobus monkeys and possibly even elephant in this area, as well as many species of impressive birds, such as the augur buzzard and Verreaux's eagle. (B,L,D)

Day 3: Trek to Lake Ellis

After a late breakfast, we start our trek up towards Mount Kenya - walking initially through forest, we pass the Urumandi Falls to reach a higher moorland area with fewer trees. On our walk, there are excellent views back towards the plains. We camp at Lake Ellis at an altitude of 3390 metres (11,120 feet). This is a blissful campsite in full view of the main peaks of Mount Kenya and well away from the main trail. 3 to 4 hours of walking. In the afternoon, there is the option of an acclimatisation walk to the summit of nearby Mugi Hill - a round trip of 2 hours. (B,L,D)

Day 4: Lake Ellis to Lake Michaelson

We continue our ascent, climbing away from Lake Ellis on its west side, across moorland to a ridge which eventually joins the main Chogoria Trail. We have views of Vivienne Falls and the Gorges Valley as we descend to the most picturesque campsite in the range, at Lake Michaelson (4000m/13,124ft). Above the camp are the impressive cliffs of the 'Temple'. Exotic bird species, including the tacazze sunbird, can be seen close to the camp amongst the bizarre giant plants - principally groundsel and lobelia. 6 hours walking. (B,L,D)

Day 5: Lake Michaelson to Simba Tarn

Today we ascend into the alpine zone, above the last of the trees and giant vegetation species. Our route follows Lake Michaelson’s main feeder stream. Initially, we head towards 'The Tooth', a rocky promontory at around 4700 meres (15,400 feet), high up on our left-hand side. Rather than camping at the usual Austrian Hut, we head towards the north side of Point Lenana and climb a short, sharp scree slope to Simba Tarn (4620m/15,158ft), where we find great views, good water and usually no other trekkers. 5 hours trekking. (B,L,D)

Day 6: Ascend to Point Lenana, then down to Old Moses Camp

An early start (at around 5am) for a cup of tea and a relatively easy 2-hour climb up to Point Lenana (4985m/16,356ft) which is the trekking summit of Mount Kenya. As dawn breaks over Africa, we are treated to a remarkable spectacle - a thin purple line becomes brighter on the eastern horizon, bursting above the morning clouds which lie in the Rift Valley and brightly illuminating the nearby peaks of Nelion and Batian. In the far distance, given perfect conditions, we can even see the snow-capped summit of Kilimanjaro - looking like a small white cloud - and over 300 kilometres away. Retracing our steps towards Simba Tarn, we descend as far as Shipton’s Camp for a hearty breakfast. We then continue our descent on the Sirimon Route, crossing the heather moorland of the northern slopes of the mountain to the Old Moses campsite at 3400 metres (11,155 feet). A long day of 10 to 12 hours trekking. (B,L,D)

Day 7: Descend to the Sirimon Gate and drive to Amboseli

After an early breakfast we continue descending through the forest for 2 hours to the Sirimon Gate where we say goodbye to some of our trekking crew. Boarding our transport, we drive south, passing Nairobi and stopping of for lunch at a hotel in Lukenya, just south of the Kenyan capital. In the evening, we reach our tented accommodation at the comfortable Sentrim Camp in the Amboseli National Park on the north side of Kilimanjaro. (B,L,D)

Day 8: Game drive at Amboseli and on to the border town of Loitokitok

We have another early start, for a game drive in the Amboseli protected area. We can expect to see many of the important East African plains animals, including elephant, hippo, giraffe, zebra, as well as lion. We will take our lunch at a lodge in the park and then set off on the short drive to the border town of Loitokitok, which is close to the start of our Kilimanjaro trek. Checking in at our picturesque cottage accommodation amongst gardens and coffee plantations, we have time to check out our gear for the next day's trek. (B,L,D)

Day 9: First day on the Rongai Route

After completing minimal formalities, we cross the border into Tanzania and make our way to the start of our trek at Nalemoru. Here, we meet our trekking crew and local guide, complete our Kilimanjaro National Park registration and set off on trek. Starting out at an altitude of around 1950 metres / 6398 feet, the very pleasant trail winds its way between farmland (maize and potato fields) and cypress plantations, with only a couple of small patches of montane forest. We gain height steadily and keep watch for the striking black and white colobus monkey and for the many species of birds. There are also quite large numbers of elephants on the tall-grass covered lower slopes of the north side of Kilimanjaro and we are very likely to meet up with some. After 4 hours trekking, we leave the patchy forest behind and set up camp on the edge of the moorland zone at the place known as Sekimba Camp or First Cave Camp. There are excellent views out across the Kenyan plains. Altitude at camp - 2650 metres (8695 feet). There is plenty of opportunity to do some exploration above camp, to further our acclimatisation. (B,L,D)

Day 10: Trek to the Third Cave Camp

A longer day’s trekking today, gaining around 1200 metres (4000 feet). Our recent acclimatisation on Mount Kenya means that we should cope well with this height gain. A steady walk in the morning leads to the so-called Second Cave Camp (3450m/11,320ft), where the trail splits and we stop to take lunch in sight of the peak of Kibo and the remnant glacier on the crater rim. After lunch, we continue in a south-westerly direction across open moorland to a sheltered valley and the Third Cave Camp. Unusual giant tree-groundsels are the dominant plant species on this part of the route. Altitude at camp – 3875 metres (12,715 feet). 6 to 7 hours walking. (B,L,D)

Day 11: To School Hut

We continue our relatively direct approach to the saddle between Mawenzi and Kilimanjaro's summit. The air is getting thinner and we take our time on this short, but quite strenuous stage. We reach our overnight halt at School Hut an altitude of 4750 metres (15,584 feet). This camp is directly beneath the Kibo crater wall. We spend the afternoon resting and have an early night in preparation for the big day tomorrow. 4 to 6 hours walking. (B,L,D)

Day 12: Summit and descend to Horombo

A very early start at around 1 a.m., as we set off by the light of our head-torches, on a zig-zag trail on rough volcanic scree. It is a tough 4 to 5 hour climb of almost 1000 metres (3000 feet) to the crater rim at Gillmans Point (5685m / 18,652ft.), which is a convenient point to rest and watch the sunrise on Mawenzi. It is a further 3-hour round trip to Uhuru Peak the high point of all Africa. Usually in the early morning, the conditions are clear and there are panoramic views over the crater, to Mawenzi and Mount Meru (4565m / 14,977ft.), looking very small below us. This part of the route takes us through a moonscape of volcanic rock and remnant glaciers with their impressive ice cliffs. After retracing our path around the crater rim we make a rapid descent to the Kibo Hut (4700m / 15,420ft). We have lunch here, before setting off on the long descent to our camp at Horombo (3720m / 12,205ft). At least 12 hours trekking. (B,L,D)

Day 13: End trek and overnight in Arusha

Not a difficult day, but it does involve close to 2000 metres (6600 feet) of descent. As we descend from Horombo, we begin to encounter more vegetation and the lower part of the route is through pine forest. We pass the traditional first camping place on the Marangu Route at the Mandara Hut, where we stop for lunch, and continue our descent to the Marangu Gate (1900m / 6234ft). After saying goodbye to our trek crew and picking up our all-important ascent certificates, we transfer to our hotel in the town of Arusha. 6 hours walking. (B,L,D)

Day 14: Fly to Uganda, overnight in Kampala

Today, we make the transfer northwards to Uganda, which gives us a welcome opportunity to rest our weary legs. We have breakfast at our hotel and then transfer to Kilimanjaro Airport for the flight to Entebbe in Uganda. On arrival at Entebbe Airport, we meet our local team and transfer to a hotel in the capital, Kampala. The remainder of the day is at leisure. (B)

Day 15: Drive to Kasese

Another easy day and a good chance to recover fully ahead of our trek in the Rwenzoris. Our approach to these enigmatic mountains involves a 6-hour journey on good tarmac roads, westwards for 400 kilometres (250 miles), through Mbarara, to the small town of Kasese. En route, we pass through the western end of the Rift Valley and the beautifully green and rolling landscape of Uganda. We also cross the equator on a couple of occasions and stop off to take lunch at a roadside restaurant. Overnight in a hotel. (B)

Day 16: Trek to the Nyabitaba Hut

It is just a short drive to the roadhead settlement of Ibanda (1600m/5250ft), where we visit the park headquarters to complete various entry formalities and also meet our trek crew of Bakonjo porters. The start of our trek takes us through plantations of bananas and coffee and the farmsteads of the local, Bakonjo people. We cross the Mahoma River and trek for a total of around 5 hours, through luxuriant forest to reach Nyabitaba Hut (2650m/8695ft). This hut is located on a ridge in the forest and commands excellent views of the Bujuku Valley and of the Portal Peaks. The original hut system built by the Mountain Club of Uganda was extensively overhauled in the 1980’s by the Rwenzori Mountain Service, with many new huts being erected. We stay in huts on each of the nights on trek. Each evening, the porters prepare their traditional mutoki (banana porridge) in a huge communal pot on a charcoal fire. There are likely to be blue monkeys in the vicinity of the hut. (B,L,D)

Day 17: Trek to the John Matte Hut

The day begins with a half hour descent through thick forest to the confluence of the rivers Bujuku and Mubuku. The Kurt Schaffer Bridge (built in 1989) makes the crossing of the Bujuku River a formality. Previously, the river had to be forded and was a truly perilous undertaking. After a long morning’s walk through giant groundsel and heather forest, a useful lunch stop is at the Nyamileju Hut. The path then climbs steadily for a further hour or so to our overnight halt at the John Matte Hut (3350m/10991ft). This is an excellent hut, the best on the circuit. John Matte (now retired) was for many years the valued retainer of the Mountain Club of Uganda. Parts of today’s walk are characterized variously by dense foliage, tangled tree roots and a profusion of jumbled boulders. It is the original rocky mountain way. This is tough trekking, as we have to concentrate on every step. 5 - 6-hours. (B,L,D)

Day 18: Trek to the Bujuku Hut

A magnificent day, initially through the lower of the two Bigo Bogs. Here, the surest way to make forward progress is to step from one tussock of grass to the next, trying to avoid falling off into the morass in between. Wellington boots are a must for this stage. The upper Bigo Bog has the remains of a board-walk which was built to reduce environmental impact. These are currently in a state of disrepair and there are plans to replace them. We pass Cooking Pot Cave, en route to Lake Bujuku and then encounter arguably the muddiest section of the whole trek on the final one and a half hour stomp around the lake and then up to the Bujuku Hut (3900m/12,796ft). Given good weather, there are fine views from this hut of the Stanley Plateau, including the peaks of Stanley, Speke and Baker. Approximately 5 to 6 hours trekking. (B,L,D)

Day 19: Trek to Elena Hut

Heading southwards now, we negotiate a steep and winding path through a forest of giant groundsel. The last hour of today’s trek negotiates a series of vegetated ledges, including a section of ladders, before arriving at the Elena Hut (4541m/14,899ft) at the foot of the Elena Glacier. An excellent day, as the scenery is superb and for a third of it we are on rock and scree, away from the mud and jungle. We aim to arrive at the hut by lunchtime, which gives us all afternoon to enjoy the views and to rest in preparation for our climb on the following day. Approximately 3 hours walking. (B,L,D)

Day 20: Ascent of Margherita, Mount Stanley

Margherita (5109m/16,762ft) is the highest summit of Mount Stanley and the third highest peak in Africa. It is reached via a steep scramble and glacier climb in a 7 to 8 hours round trip. The route starts out with a section of rock scrambling, using fixed rope where necessary. Approximately one hour after leaving the hut, we gain the ridge and traverse left to the glacier. This requires delicate descent down an icy gully and a traverse across a rock slab above small cliffs. The guides will fix ropes on this section. After ascending the glacier, there is also something of a 'sting in the tail', in the form of the final rock step and scramble to the summit. The gradual melting away of the glaciers on Margherita has left a short (4m/13ft) near vertical wall at the base of the summit ridge. This requires the use of a rope to protect this section. Prior to making the ascent, there will be the opportunity to demonstrate the techniques of ascending and descending fixed lines, using prussik loops as safety devices. On the initial part of the descent, we may need to lower group members from the rock step back down to the glacier. It is worth noting that Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman climbed the wrong mountain twice, before finally topping out on Margherita - simply because they lost their direction in the infamous mist. Return to overnight at the Elena Hut. An 8 to 12 hour day. (B,L,D)

Day 21: Trek to the Kitandara Hut

After the exertions of yesterday, this is an easy day of 3 to 4 hours trekking. We have a leisurely start to the day, spending time at the Scott Elliot Pass, which is one of the most desolate and beautiful spots in the Rwenzori, with Mount Baker (4842m/15,887ft) visible to the south. Towering grey walls, streaked with yellow lichen and mosses, overshadow the path as we drop down to the Kitandara Lakes and the Kitandara Hut (3990m/13,091ft) our overnight objective, which is situated on the shores of the main lake. (B,L,D)

Day 22: Trek to the Guy Yeoman Hut

It is time to start the trek back to the roadhead at Ibanda. Our route follows the valley of the River Mubuku, which is reached by climbing steeply to the Freshfield Pass (4215m) and then descending to the Bujongolo Cave, the site of the Duke of Abruzzi’s basecamp in 1906. It was this well organised expedition which made first ascents of the main summits of the Rwenzoris. Continuing our descent, via the Kabamba Cave, we reach the Guy Yeoman Hut (3450m) after a total of 5 or 6 hours walking. (B,L,D)

Day 23: Trek to Ibanda, overnight at Kasese

Our last day, but if anything one of the hardest trekking days. If we are not clambering over slippery boulders and tree roots or wading up to our knees in mud, we are cutting our way through bamboo jungle with pangas (machetes). After 4 to 5 hours we complete our circuit by arriving back at Nyabitaba Hut. Then, after a brief rest, we press on to the roadhead at Ibanda. Here, it is time to say goodbye to our Bakonjo staff, before boarding our transport for the short drive to Kasese and the welcome comfort of our hotel. 8 hours trekking. (B,L,D)

Day 24: Drive back to Kampala

After breakfast, we pack up our gear and board our vehicles for the long drive back across the country to the Ugandan capital of Kampala. Arriving in the late afternoon, we check in at a hotel. We will find a local restaurant for a celebratory evening meal. (B,L)

Day 25: Depart from Entebbe Airport

KE Land Only package service end after breakfast. Most clients will have time for sightseeing in Kampala, before transferring to Entebbe Airport in the afternoon to catch their homeward flight. (B)