Gran Paradiso and Mont Blanc

Day 1: Arrive in Argentiere

Rendezvous at the group's chalet in Argentiere (altitude 1240m/4660ft.), just outside Chamonix. Here, you will be welcomed and made to feel at home. In the evening, we will have an informal chat about the week ahead. There will also be a chance for the guide to check out your clothing and gear and to decide if you will need to pick up any further items of equipment before setting out in the morning. KE Land Only package services begin with the evening meal, an excellent 3-course dinner. Meals included: Dinner (D)

Day 2: Aiguille Midi and the Vallee Blanche

We take the early morning lift from Chamonix up to the Aiguille du Midi (3842m/12605ft.). Today, we aim to traverse the Vallee Blanche to kick-start the process of acclimatisation and to give us the chance to practice the use of ice-axe and crampons. We rope up at the top of the Aiguille Du Midi to descend its classic snow arête to the Col Du Midi (3532m/11588ft.) This is a stunning day out, with superb views of the big mountains of the Alps – the Drus, the Jorasses, the Courtes, the Droites, perhaps even a distant view of the Matterhorn. There are several small summits and view-points on the way as we traverse this spectacular glacier to reach the Helbronner Gondola station on the Italian border (the highest border station in Europe). We return via the spectacularly scenic Gondola to the Aguille du Midi where we ride the cable car back down to Chamonix. Time for a quick refreshment in Chamonix before we head back to the chalet in Argentiere. (B,D)

Day 3: Transfer into Italy and hike to the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele

Today we will drive through the Mont Blanc Tunnel and have lunch at the Albergo Paradiso, beneath the shapely peak of Gran Paradiso. In the afternoon we make the steep, 2 to 3-hour ascent to the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele (2735m / 8973ft). The old hut (still there) was built in 1884, whilst the new one did not appear until 1932. There are beds for 120 people and there is good drinking water, washing facilities, a lake, hydro electricity, bar and restaurant. This large, lively hut is friendly and well organised, with good food, coffee and wine! (B,D)

Day 4: Ascend Gran Paradiso and descend to the Rifugio Chabod

A pre-dawn start from the hut to climb this isolated peak, crossing boulders and snow fields which lead us onto the Glacier du Mont Gran Paradiso and towards the Becca de Montcorve. We cross snow slopes to reach the Fenetre du Mont Roc, crossing a rimaye (a large crevasse separating the glacier from the permanent snow field above) and ascending a steep slope to give access to the final rocky summit ridge. The final 100 metres is an exciting exposed scramble though we are well protected. The summit supports a recently renovated ‘Madonna’ which is fortunately well attached to the rocks. This is a fantastic viewpoint particularly of the Mont Blanc Massif. 5 hours and 1300 metres (4265 feet) of ascent. The return journey is made via the same route for a short distance, then down the Glacier de Laveciau. This is usually a fairly intricate maze of crevasses which we wind our way through, eventually exiting onto the moraines through which a trail leads down to the Rifugio Chabod. This is a good place to bask in the sun and admire the north face of the Gran Paradiso (a popular ice climb) and our route down through the icefall. 7 to 8 hours in total. The Rifugio Federico Chabod is at an altitude of 2750 metres (9022 feet). It was built in 1985, has accommodation for 100, drinking water, washing facilities/showers and hydro-electricity. (B,D)

Day 5: Walk to road and drive to Chamonix

From the hut we ascend gently initially and then more steeply below the cliffs of the Pyramid du Grand Neyron (3255m / 10,679ft). This is usually a great place to spot herds of chamois and ibex. A hidden rocky col is finally reached and we prepare for an exciting descent, using fixed chains and ladders to take us down to the moraines of the Timorion Valley. Finally, we reach a pleasant path leading to the old cattle byres at Levionaz Dessus, from where we descend zigzags to the Leviona valley. Finally we finish our trek with a steep zigzagging trail through pine forests and below the Leviona waterfall to the hamlet of Tignet, a beautifully restored collection of buildings. A short descent along a road leads to our pick up point in Degioz, Valsaverenche. 7 hours walking. After a late lunch (time permitting), we board our transport for the return drive to the Chamonix Valley and the chalet accommodation in Argentiere. (B,D)

Day 6: First day on Mont Blanc

Now that our training is over, we are ready for the ascent of Mont Blanc. The group will be joined by more guides (ratio 2 clients to 1 guide), in order to give us the best chance of success. The route we have chosen* to climb Mont Blanc on this itinerary is the superb traverse via Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit. More technical than the Normal Route via the Dome de Goûter, ‘the traverse’ is a sensational way to reach the summit of Mont Blanc. The route (sometimes referred to as the Trois Mont Blancs route) starts out by way of the cable-car to the Aiguille du Midi (3,842m / 12,546ft.). Then, dropping down into a snow bowl, we have a short ascent to reach our overnight accommodation at the Cosmiques refuge (3,613m / 11,812ft). We will be at the hut by early afternoon, giving us plenty of time to enjoy the dramatic location. (B,D)

Day 7: Summit and descend via Gouter ridge

The Big Day! Starting at approximately 1 a.m. from the Cosmiques Refuge, the first obstacle is the bergschrund beneath Mont Blanc du Tacul. Thereafter, the climbing is steady, on glaciated snow slopes, averaging 30 to 35 degrees inclination. There are steeper sections, up to 40 or even 50 degrees, notably on the final slopes to the shoulder of Mont Maudit. We should be on Mont Blanc’s summit (4807m/15,772ft.) just after dawn, in position to enjoy some of the most spectacular views in the whole of Europe. We make our descent via the Normal Route arriving at the Tete Rousse refuge early afternoon (in time for a late lunch). (B,D)

Day 8: Second day for climbing Mont Blanc if required

If we have not summited the day before we make the attempt today as described above. After summiting we will descend via the Normal Route and should be back down in the valley by mid-afternoon, in time for a late lunch or afternoon tea at the chalet. If we have summited on day 6, then we have a leisurely descent to the valley in time for lunch. In the evening, we have the opportunity to reflect on the adventures of the week, during the course of a celebratory dinner at the chalet. (B,D)

Day 9: Depart

The KE Land Only package services end after breakfast. (B)