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Important Information
Due to the unpredictable nature of government travel advisories relating to Djenne and Dogon Country in Mali, it may not always be possible to run the itinerary as published. Please refer to the alternative itinerary as detailed in the Itinerary variation Note. To see the latest government travel advisories relating to Mali please click on the links below:
FCO: http://www.fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad/travel-advice-by-country/sub-saharan-africa/mali DFAT: http://www.smartraveller.gov.au/zw-cgi/view/Advice/Mali
Visas and Permits
On a city tour of Dakar we discover the major attractions of this ever-changing city. The IFAN Museum of African Arts (Musée Théodore Monod d’Art Africain) was established in 1938 and is the oldest art museum in west Africa, with interesting tribal displays including costumes, masks and musical instruments. It also continues to be a centre for promoting on-going African culture. We also visit Dakar’s 1920s Roman Catholic Cathedral and the controversial African Renaissance Monument, which was actually built by the North Koreans! In the afternoon we take a 30-minute ferry ride to Goree Island (Ile de Gorée), site of the original European settlement in the area. One of the oldest Dutch-era buildings has been turned into the House of Slaves, a moving and somewhat harrowing exhibition on the horrors of the slave trade.
In the morning we visit the colourful markets of Dakar, where you can purchase all sorts of souvenirs including wooden masks and other wood carvings, as well as colourful fabrics. Before leaving Dakar we stop at Lac Rose (Pink Lake), a picturesque lagoon surrounded by sand dunes. Our journey then takes us north to the magical island-city of Saint-Louis – the former French colonial capital of Senegal and in fact for a period of time the capital of all of French West Africa. Most of the colonial sector is located in the small island on the Senegal River, although the city now numbers about 180,000 inhabitants and has spread to the mainland. With the allure of its historic streets and colonial buildings, Saint-Louis has been accorded UNESCO World Heritage status. It is also the home of Africa’s most important jazz music festival, usually held in May or June each year. Our hotel here is an elegant historic place that dates back to the 1850s and was used in bygone days by the pilots of the colonial airmail service.
We enjoy a day trip 60 kilometres north of Saint-Louis at the Djoudj National Park. This park covers an area of 120,000 square kilometres and contains several wetlands habitats including rivers, water channels, lakes, basins and marshes, as well as woodland savannah. It is significant because it is the one of the first major places south of the Sahara Desert with permanent water. The stand-out larger birds include flamingos and pelicans, but nearly 400 species of birds have been recorded here and over 3 million individual migratory birds pass through the reserve each year. We also get to visit one of the local fishing communities before returning to Saint-Louis.
We spend the morning exploring the colonial streets of Saint-Louis riding on a horse-drawn buggy, undoubtedly finding new surprises at each hidden corner. After lunch we head back south on our vehicles before turning towards the coast for a true desert experience. At our desert camp in the Lompoul Desert, we stay overnight in stylish Mauritanian Bedouin-type tents that are elegantly assembled on raised wooden platforms. We sit around the campfire and, to the accompaniment of Sahel music, absorb the magic of a desert night under a star-filled sky.
After breakfast we embark on a camel ride out into the desert. The stark beauty of the area belies the harsh reality for those people who have to live here. It also makes one admire the hardiness of the desert people. After out ride we are met by our vehicles and driven to Touba, a holy city of Mouridism and the burial place of its founder, Cheikh Amadou Bamba. We stop to visit the Great Mosque, which is the largest in the country, before continuing to Kaolack, a city in west-central Senegal, our stop for the night and the home to Africa's largest covered market.
Our journey now takes us to the remote south-eastern corner of the country, not far from the border with Guinea. This mountainous region is known as Bassari country, after the Bassari people who still live in their traditional villages. It is the poorest part of Senegal and yet the region is rich in minerals, especially gold and iron. There are lots of gold mines in the area and a lot of the local people work in these mines. We stay a couple of nights in the town of Kédougou, which is unique in that it is really just a big village with traditional huts and an interesting market that sells indigo fabrics amongst other things. On our full day here we take an excursion to Dindefelo Falls. It’s a two-hour drive from Kédougou to Dindefelo village. We then trek for two kilometres to get to the waterfalls, which plunges 100 metres into an inviting deep pool that is ideal for a refreshing swim.
We cross into The Gambia and make our way to Jangjang-bureh, a tranquil country town that was known in colonial times as Georgetown. Established by the British in 1823 as a trading outpost, it is situated in MacCarthy Island on the Gambia River and is also sometimes referred to as Makaaty. Around town are several buildings that are reminders of the colonial past, but another major attraction of this place is the abundance of birds that inhabit the jungle along the river, making it a haven for bird-watchers. The sounds of the birds singing, chirping and twittering away makes for the sound of the forest and an experience we are unlikely to forget.
In the spirit of Joseph Conrad, we embark on a riverboat excursion down the Gambia River to Wassu. Look out for herds of hippos wallowing in the water. We visit the Wassu Stone Circles – a mysterious collection of laterite rock columns laid out in circular formations that date back to the years between 500 AD and 1000 AD. Despite research, no-one can say for sure why they exist and who put them there. The excavations have unearthed bronze and iron artefacts as well as human bones. From here we continue by road to the Atlantic Coast and the fishing town of Bakau, where we spend a couple of nights at a beachside resort hotel.
30 kilometres from Bakau is Banjul – the capital of The Gambia. Known as Bathurst in colonial times, this is actually quite a small city of only 35,000 people and a metropolitan population of about 360,000. We drive under Arch 22 which commemorates the bloodless military coup that overthrew the government on 22 July 1994. Albert Market is the lively centre of activity and there is general something for everyone on sale here. The National Museum tells the story of the history of The Gambia though displays of artefacts and photographs. In the afternoon we head out to Lamin Fish Farm, a sustainable breeding program started by a Gambian family in 1998. Today it has expanded its produce to fresh fruit and vegetables, tropical plants and flowers which supply local hotels, supermarkets and restaurants. The farm is enjoys a pleasant garden setting and you can sample local Gambian specialties such as baobab juice or 'Wonjoh' - a drink made from hibiscus flowers.
We return to Senegal and travel the short distance to Toubakouta, in the Siné-Saloum Delta. Only 20 kilometres from the border with The Gambia, this delta area is full of mangroves and teeming with abundant bird life, ranging from flamingos, egrets, herons and other aquatic species to fish eagles, often seen soaring above. An evening boat ride enables us to enjoy the natural attractions of the area at a time when is usually at its most active and gives us a chance to view another beautiful African sunset, this time from the water.
On our journey back towards Dakar, we stop at the unique twin village of Joal-Fadiout. Joal is the village on the mainland and is linked by a bridge to Fadiout, which is an island that is made up completely of clam shells. It is also an interesting community whereby Muslims and Christians live peacefully side by side. The first president of Senegal, Léopold Sédar Senghor, hails from the village of Joal. Our final night is spent in the seaside resort of Saly, a place renowned for its vibrant nightlife.
We take a full day excursion to visit Siby, in Mandingue Country south of the capital. It has historical importance in the former Malian empire and there are still examples of old Dogon houses, famous for their unique conical granaries, to be found in some villages. It is the region from which the Dogon group originally migrated. We take a trek through beautiful landscapes to see striking natural rock formations and lush waterfalls in the region. We will also explore remote villages and meet local Mandingue people along the way. Tonight we visit Restaurant le San Toro, located in the happening Hippodrome district; this place is a true Bamako institution. Renowned for its top quality West African dishes, including the ubiquitous ‘capitaine’ fish from the River Niger, this meal is sure to be a treat. The restaurant is beautifully furnished and decorated with Malian art and handicrafts and set in very pleasant natural surroundings. The appealing sounds of traditional live music being performed on the kora will complete the experience. We are spoilt for choice in our quest for some live after-dinner sounds! Many of the major artists of Mali own their own establishments and you’ll often find them as the feature act on many nights! This includes Oumou Sangare who owns her own hotel and bar and famous kora player Toumani Diabaté who owns a popular club called ‘Le Diplomat’.
Heading due north out of Bamako, we travel to the village of Niamana, where we lend support to the tremendous work that is being done by Mali Initiative Projects in providing education facilities for the local people. We meet the mayor of the village and get briefed on the community developments that are taking place. We are then escorted to a home where we get to be guests of a local family for the night and enjoy a home-cooked meal with them. This is a unique opportunity for cross-cultural interaction and is sure to be a memorable encounter.
This morning we will depart Niamana for the short drive to Segou. Just before arriving in Segou, we will stop for a visit of Segou-Koro, the ancient capital of the Bambara Empire, to visit the cemetery of Biton Coulibaly. Biton Coulibaly was the first King of Segou-Koro and is credited with protecting the village against attacks from Europeans during the slave trade. We will also visit two ancient mosques, one of which is older than the town of Segou-Koro and built by an unknown person. The other mosque was built by the King and given as a gift to his mother when she converted to Islam.After our visit, we will continue onto Segou and check into our hotel. As the heat of the day subsides, we take a twilight tour of Segou including a drive past the colonial administrative buildings, a visit to the riverfront and a stroll amid the various artisans such as pottery makers, rug weavers and producers of local millet beer. Dinner tonight will be at our hotel. The following day we spend the morning at Boubacar Doumbia's atelier. Boubacar is the leading Bogolon (mud cloth) artist in Mali. He, or one of his staff, will give us a demonstration on how mud cloth is made from start to finish. You can then have your own hands-on experience of making a sample piece which you will get to keep. There is also the opportunity to purchase some of the Bogolon products, which make for an original, quality souvenir of Mali. This afternoon, we take an excursion on the legendary Niger River by traditional ‘pinasse’ boat. We enjoy a sunset on the river before returning to our hotel.
We travel to the far south-east corner of Mali and into the lush region of Sikasso. Sikasso was the last Malian town to resist being colonised by the French and there are still sections of the mud-brick town wall that fell to the French cannons in 1898.Nearby we visit the Grottes de Missirikoro, a limestone cave network that has significance to both animist and Muslim faiths.
(Driving time: approx 7 hours including time at border crossing.) Heading south-east we cross the border into Burkina Faso. After completing border formalities, we enter our new country and continue to Bobo-Dioulasso where we spend two nights. Burkina Faso is a landlocked savannah country crossed by the three principal rivers of the Black, Red and White Voltas. Literally, 'Burkina' is translated 'Men of Integrity' from the Moré language. The Burkinabé, as the local population is known, belong to two major West African cultural groups - the Voltaic and the Mande. Making up one half of the population, the Voltaic Mossi people claim descent from warriors who migrated to present-day Burkina Faso from Ghana. Predominantly farmers today, the Voltaic Mossi kingdom is led by the Mogho Naba who still hold court in Ouagadougou. From its independence in 1960 until 1984, Burkina Faso was known by its colonial name - Upper Volta. (Driving time: approx 5 hours including excursion) In Bobo (as its known locally), visit the Grand Marché, which is famous for being located at the crossroads of numerous tribes and stocks a great selection of tribal arts from all over west Africa. We can also opt to take a walk through the Kibidwe District and partake in some fascinating people-watching, giving us an insight into the daily lives of the Kibidwe people. But no highlight in Bobo-Dioulasso is greater than its music. The town is known as the Music Capital of Burkina Faso and on weekends it really comes alive! A melting pot of markets, music and nightlife, it's a great place to appreciate the richness of the traditional music and absorb an extraordinary blend of west African cultures.
(Driving time: approx 1 hour.) An hour's drive takes us to Banfora - a sleepy town set amidst a lush green landscape, surrounded by waterfalls and small lakes. We then spend the afternoon visiting the wonderful attractions in the surrounding area. Sindou is home to incredible rock formations. An ideal short hike takes us to witness a narrow three-kilometre chain of sandstone hills that are occasionally crowned by more erosion-resistant pieces of rocks. Lake Tengréla is home to more than a hundred hippos, but we also get to meet the local fishermen and the lake is also home to a wide variety of bird life. Karfiguela Waterfalls is another stop that is worth the journey whatever the season. Our first sighting of the falls is after we have made our way though a magnificent avenue of mango trees and negotiated a chaotic jumble of rocks. We return to Banfora for our overnight stay.
(Driving time: approx 9 hours over 2 days.) Today we travel to Gaoua (210 kilometres south-east of Bobo), located in the heart of Lobi country. This area is culturally distinctive and fascinating due to its unique architecture and age-old traditions. Lobi homes are made with high brick mud walls and have small slits for windows, not unlike a miniature fortress. These homes are not built in villages but out in the fields, with a small family compound being up to several hundred metres from their nearest neighbour. Living in these remote rural areas, the Lobi are not used to foreigners, and may feel nervous when we visit. Please do not take any photos here without permission. In the afternoon we visit the ancient stone ruins of Loropéni. These are the best-preserved of the larger Lobi ruins. No one is sure of the origins of the stones - one theory being that they were once part of a slave palace belonging to a historic Lobi king, while another is that they were part of a fortified village that stretched through a 18,600-square-kilometre cultural corridor in lands which are today Burkina Faso, Ivory Coast and Ghana. On Day 11 we depart on a five-hour drive to Ouagadougou (pronounced waga-doo-goo) - one of the cultural centres of west Africa. Ouagadougou has a population of approximately 1.5 million and is the surprisingly modern capital of Burkina Faso. We arrive in the mid-afternoon and, after checking into our hotel and getting refreshed, there is an opportunity to visit the cultural centre for excellent quality carvings, brasswork and other handmade souvenirs. We dare you to leave without at least a couple of purchases from this excellent centre that supports local artisans!
Today we take a full day excursion to unique village of Tiebele – located just a few kilometres from the Ghanaian border and known for its unusual architecture. Here in the village, the dwellings are either square or round and are all elaborately decorated with black diamond patterns, illustrations of snakes, crocodiles and other sacred animals. Our guide will help unlock the secrets and the stories of these fascinating frescoes. You have to stoop low to enter the windowless houses, where it is dark and cool in stark contrast with the brightness and heat outside. In times past, this afforded the inhabitants of the village some form of protection againsts enemies or wild animals as it took a few seconds for them to adjust to the darkness. We spend several hours exploring Tiebele compound and its surrounds before returning to Ouagadougou for the night.
(Driving time: approx 12 hours including time spent at border and game drive.) Heading east we travel to the third country on our expedition - Benin. This relatively small, club-shaped country was once home to one of the most powerful empires in west Africa - the Dahomey Kingdom It is also considered the traditional home of the voodoo religion. Musically, Benin's most famous export is the fabulous Angelique Kidjo who helped west Africa stamp its authority on the world music scene in the early 1990s. Located in the north-west corner of Benin, Pendjari National Park (Parc National de la Pendjari) is known for its abundance of wildlife that include elephant, baboon, lion, hippopotamus, buffalo and various antelopes such as kob, waterbuck, hartebeest and duiker. However it is most famous for its amazing and wide variety of birds with over 300 species making the park their home, including many waterbirds such as cranes and storks. Although it adjoins Arli National Park in Burkina Faso, the isolation of Pendjari creates a unique ecosystem that is often described as one of the most interesting in west Africa. Please note however that the wildlife in west Africa is somewhat fewer in numbers than in east and southern Africa. We visit the reserve in time to do an afternoon-evening safari. This is the best time of the day for viewing wildlife, as many of the animals get more active.
A short drive takes us to Natitingou. En route we stop at Tanougou Falls, where we have the opportunity to enjoy a refreshing swim. Natitingou is located at 440 metres above sea level and enjoys the pleasant climate that is found amidst the Atakora Mountains of northern Benin. Here we visit the remote Betamaribé people, who still hunt with bows and arrows and live in the middle of their cultivated fields rather than in a village environment. Their small, fortress-like houses consist of three levels - ground floor for the animals, first floor for the kitchen and top floor for living space and sleeping.
(Driving time: approx 8½ hours.) We continue south for 520 kilometres to Abomey, the ancient capital of the Dahomey Kingdom - previously one of the greatest empires in west Africa. Here we visit the must-see restored Royal Palace and learn about the incredible history of the Fon kings. The gory history of Dahomey is illustrated by exhibits that include graphic tapestries of war scenes and Ghezo’s throne, which is mounted on the skulls of four of his enemies. In the evening we experience a performance of the unique Geleden Masked Dance (Dance Geleden des Fons) which is put on by the local Yoroba and Fon people. These people practise both the Voodoo religion and Christianity and they also worship Idols, which are represented on some of the masks use for the dance. They believe that wearing certain masks enables one to communicate directly with the spirits. They dance on special occasions such as at funerals and during harvest time, but they also to entertain foreigners who bring income to their village!
(Driving time: approx 2 hours; optional excursion to Ouidah: approx 2 hours.) A short two-hour drive takes us to the lake village of Ganvié, where we take a 'pirogue' (dugout canoe) which is the traditional boat used by west African fishermen and go for a paddle out on to the lake. The afternoon is then spent driving the coastal highway and passing through small villages dotted with white flags that identify Voodoo practitioners. Our destination is Ouidah, a tranquil, atmospheric town set on a beautiful beach and its a wonderful place to rejuvenate. We spend two nights here, so there is plenty of time to relax in the shade of the coconut groves after our recent long days of travel and watch the waves come in. This is the Gulf of Guinea which is part of the Atlantic Ocean, so swimming is limited due to the strong currents, but this won't lessen sleepy charm and tranquility of this place. During our stay, we explore Ouidah town to learn about the origins of the often misunderstood Voodoo religion and meet some of the local practitioners. Ouidah is the historic centre of Voodooism, with thousands of believers often flocking there to rejoice in their faith. We visit the mystical Sacred Temple of Pythons as well as Avenue D'Esclaves and witness an energetic voodoo performance during our stay.
(Driving time: approx 3½ hours including time at border.) Today we cross the border into Togo. We drive approximately 45 minutes to Lake Togo before continuing by boat to visit Togoville - a historical town which is interesting because of its royal palace and colonial church. It was from here that Voodoo practitioners were taken to before they were transported to Haiti as slaves. The town still shows a strong influence of Voodoo today, with plenty of fetish stalls in the streets. We then continue to Togo's capital, Lomé. Our city tour includes the National Museum, which houses historical artefacts, potteries, costumes, traditional musical instruments, wood carvings and traditional medicinal remedies. There's also the opportunity (optional) to visit the various markets such as the central market, arts market and the fetish market at Akedessewa, located four kilometres from the centre of town. Here we see remarkable supplies of traditional medicines used by sorcerers including skulls of monkeys, snake skins, warthog teeth, lion skin, leopard skin and dried birds. Some of us may find some of this gruesome!
(Driving time: approx 3½ hours.) Entering our final country, we cross the border into into the English-speaking Ghana. It will certainly be an welcome adjustment after travelling through so many French-speaking countries! Our destination is the Akosombo. Akosombo is located on the Volta River and is the location of the rock-filled Akosombo Dam, completed in 1965 by a coalition of governments and the World Bank, as part of the Volta River Project. Our accommodation this evening is in a comfortable hotel.
(Driving time: approx 4 hours.) Today we have an approximate four-hour drive to Kumasi, the one-time capital of the powerful Ashanti kingdom. This hilly city is today home to over one million people and has quite a cosmopolitan feel about it. We enjoy a tour of Kumasi that includes the Manhyia Palace Museum, which was built in 1925 by the British and was home to the Ashanti kings until 1974. The Armed Forces Museum is another interesting place visited and the collection here tells the story of the many conflicts that had taken place particularly in the 20th century. We end our day by visiting a nearby village that is known for its talented artisans who weave Ghana's beautiful kente cloth.
(Driving time: approx 7 hours.) We travel south to Axim and stay a night at Ghana’s most isolated and luxurious beach resorts. Two kilometres from the hotel is Axim town, a historical place with a population of about 20,000. The main occupation here is fishing. There are several historical places not far from the hotel such as Fort St Anthony, which was built by the Portuguese in 1515 at a time when they were setting this up as an old trading port. Perched on top of a hill in nearby Princess Town is Fort Princess Town, which was originally built by the Prussians in 1683 and called Gross Friedrichsburg. There are also opportunities to go trekking in a forest or go whale watching (seasonal). We spend two days in this very relaxing coastal haven - this place is sure to be a favourite!
(Driving time: approx 3 hours.) Today we drive to Elmina, where we visit St George's Castle. Known previously as one of the 'slave castles', it is one of over 20 such castles built along the shoreline of the Gold Coast - the old name for what is now Ghana. The Gold Coast was one of the richest markets for slave traders during the peak of the slave trade and we learn about this tragic history through visiting some of the key historical sites of the region. We also visit a fishing village and the Pursubans animist shrines, then take a short 10-kilometre drive to Cape Coast which was the centre of the British administration and capital of the Gold Coast between 1700 until 1877, as well as being renowned for its own notorious 'slave castle'. We return back to Elmina at end of the day for the final night of our journey.
(Driving time: approx 4 hours.) Our final destination is Accra, the capital of Ghana. An exploration of the city includes the National Museum and the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, dedicated to the founder of modern Ghana. The remainder of the day is at leisure. For those of us who are flying out this evening, day rooms have been booked for our use at our Accra hotel. This will enable us to freshen up prior to our flight home. An evening transfer is included to Accra's Kotoka International Airport, where our expedition comes to an end.
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