Spain: Seville, Granada & Córdoba

We start with a walk from our hotel to the world’s third largest cathedral, rebuilt on the foundation of the previous mosque. If you'd like, join our guides for an ascent to the top of the bell tower for a commanding view over the 2,000-year-old city. Leaving the cathedral, we walk through the Santa Cruz district, famous for its tranquil, secluded courtyards filled with flowers, trees and fountains. The American writer Washington Irving lived in one of the mansions, many of which command some of the most expensive real estate prices in Europe. After a stop in Plaza de los Venerables for a cool drink at the little restaurant where the infamous Don Juan regaled his friends with his tales of conquest, we continue on to the Alcazar. You’d guess it was built by the Arabs during their reign, but the Alcazar was actually erected after the Spanish Catholics had conquered the Moors. We explore the public and private rooms, marveling at the intricate blend Arabic geometric designs with Spanish influences. 

Late afternoon, we stroll through a charming shopping area en route back to the hotel. After a very Spanish rest, we take dinner at an excellent local restaurant on a quintessential orange-tree-lined square. Overnight: Seville Meals: D

After lunch at a local restaurant, we’ll visit the small town of Zahara de la Sierra, one of Los Pueblos Blancos ("the white villages") that are dazzling whitewashed clusters that almost seem to jump out against their mountainous backdrop. Originally a Moorish outpost, it offers long views over a valley. The remains of the fortress are still accessible, and we’ll pay a visit to explore the scenic ruins. Afterward, we return to our hotel in Ronda for dinner and an evening of relaxation. Overnight: Ronda Meals: B, D

After lunch in Ronda, we visit Antequera, one of the great strongholds of the Moors following their defeat in Seville and Cordoba in the late 14th century. In nearby El Torcal National Park, we’ll wander through one of the most fantastical landscapes of stone in all of Europe. Thousands of years of erosion have carved the limestone into fascinating rock fins and spires and pillars of pink and silver. We see traces of the Romans who quarried the stone and others who populated the area until the late 19th century. A rich mix of plant life sprout from crevices in the stone walls—like a rock garden gone mad. El Torcal is also on a major migratory route for birds, and we have a good chance of spotting many species, such as the Imperial Eagle and the peregrine falcon. 

In time for dinner, we transfer to the last outpost of the former Moorish kingdom—the magnificent town of Granada. Built on three hills at the foot of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, Granada was a cultural center during the Moorish occupation (711-1492) and the Renaissance. We have time to check in to our hotel and relax before dinner this evening. Overnight: Granada Meals: B

Late morning, we walk downhill and along the river to the cathedral and Plaza Nueva, where we have some free time for lunch and a visit through the alcaizeria, a former silk market similar to the souks in Morocco. Following lunch, you can walk or ride up the hill to the Albaicín, the old Muslim quarter of Granada. Built on a steep slope, the district faces the Alhambra to give us a spectacular view. We explore the twisting, cobblestone streets, whitewashed houses and carmenes—villas with flowered courtyards and patios, some with undeniable Moorish decoration and architecture. 

Returning to the hotel, you might want to siesta or relax for a while, as we have a special evening planned. We’re off to the Sacromonte district, an area where gypsy caves have been converted into flamenco venues. We witness a remarkable performance where the dancers are so close that you have to be careful they don't step on your feet! Overnight: Granada Meals: B, D

We settle in, then head out for a lovely mid-day walk and picnic along the Gibralberca route. We’ll meet the local farmers at work among their olive groves. And this is a good day to carry binoculars. The views into the Sierra Magina mountains are amazing, and the virgin landscape is a paradise for birdwatchers. Scented by rosemary and thyme, the fresh air will whet your appetite for a picnic lunch in a forest of oak trees. 

Then it’s on to the Renaissance town of Ubeda. We’ll stop for a coffee, stroll in the old quarter, and visit with a potter who crafts ceramics by hand in his workshop. We’ll also pause at an olive mill museum in the hamlet of Puente del Obispo. Formerly a farm belonging to a monastery, the mill now demonstrates the centuries-old techniques of growing, picking and pressing the olives. Overnight: Jaen Meals: B, L, D

Returning to Jaen, you’ll have a few hours to lounge by the castle’s pool, take a siesta or go into town for tapas. As the mellow evening approaches, we meet for a visit to the town's Arab baths, which are the largest and most wellpreserved in Spain. Following our visit, we sit down to our farewell dinner at one of the fine local restaurants in the old town. Overnight: Jaen Meals: B, L, D

We first visit the famous Mezquita mosque. Built between the 8th and 10th centuries, this is one of the earliest and most beautiful examples of Spanish Muslim architecture. Inside, more than 850 columns of granite, jasper and marble support the roof. Beyond the columns are red and white striped horseshoe arches, a patio filled with orange trees, and a 305-foot bell tower, which offers expansive views of the city. Later in the morning, we have a chance to explore the cobblestone streets of the old quarter before parting company midday at the rail station. Here, high-speed AVE trains take you to Madrid in less than one and a half hours. Meals: B