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Ellesmere Island is spanned by lofty mountain ranges mantled in polar ice. This ice cover, at least 100,000 years old, crowns some of the most pristine wilderness on earth, a land visited by only a handful of scientists and peopled by a solitary Inuit village. Here, silence is broken by the roaring of glacial meltwater…by the low clucking of the oldsquaw…by the guttural call of the red-throated loon passing overhead, or the rasp of the Arctic tern. 

 

Our aircraft’s destination is a remote tundra airstrip near Tanquary Fiord, where outstanding vistas of massive glaciers provide a backdrop for scattered herds of muskoxen. Other wildlife includes Arctic hare, who may stretch up on their hind legs for a better view as we pass by. Tundra-nesting shorebirds, jaegers and red-throated loons are some of the birdlife we are likely to encounter, and with luck we may glimpse one of the local wolf packs. 

From Tanquary Fiord we strike out, hiking the Mac Donald Valley toward Lewis and Ekblaw Lakes before traversing Air Force Glacier where we return via the Air Force River to Tanquary Fiord. Glacial valleys and deep fiords carve the coastline of Quttinirpaaq National Park, while several nunataks (peaks protruding through the ice cap) stand over 2,500 meters (8, 250 ft). In the heart of the park, Mount Barbeau, at 2,616 m (8,250 ft), is the highest mountain in east. The panorama that unfolds along our trekking route is mind-blowing, with great glaciers pouring into the pass directly off the neighboring icecaps. 

While on trek we may see signs of peoples who came before us, which are still clearly evident even though some are up to 4,000 years old. A stone fox trap, a tent ring, and scattered remains from earlier polar explorations all speak of the adventurous spirit of those who first reveled in this solitude at the top of the world. 

The monochrome of the rock and ice landscape is accented by the rich colors exposed over the terrain, offering testimony to the powerful forces of millennia of glacial erosion. Meadows filled with Arctic poppies and purple broad-leafed willow herb contrast vividly against the barren ice, inspiring impromptu walks and outstanding photographic opportunities. We keep an eye out for Peary caribou that like to graze upon the verdant tundra, looking up frequently to spot a gyrfalcon flying over. 

Physical Activities: This trip is rated expert. We will be trekking across a harsh northern landscape with no defined trails. In some places, frost heaves have created hummocky ground that can make walking somewhat awkward. There will be fields of boulders and scree to negotiate, as well as river crossings. Ellesmere rivers respond to the degree of snow melt on the glaciers during the high-temperature point of the day, which means that on a warm day rivers can run fast and deep. Timing and route-finding are critical here, and our guides’ judgment and experience in making these crossings is indispensable. 

Participants on this adventure must be in good physical condition. On transit days we will break camp, load our packs and move to a new site. We expect to hike between six and eight miles on such days, and hiking times are expected to range from six to eight hours (which includes breaks). You must be capable of carrying a loaded backpack over rough terrain. Each participant can expect to receive about 20 pounds of group gear in the beginning, which will gradually decrease in weight as we use up our food and fuel. Therefore, the total weight of your pack depends on how much personal gear you bring. If you stick to the equipment list we will supply, your pack should weigh about 40 to 50 pounds. 

The individual and collective success of this trek depends upon each applicant assessing his or her own abilities to participate in a trip of this nature. If you have any questions or doubts about your suitability for this trip, please give us a call to discuss it further.

TRIP INCLUDES

• Expert leadership and support personnel  
• Meals as noted (B=breakfast, L=lunch, D=dinner)  
• Group airport transfers and Twin Otter transfer  
• All group equipment including tents, cooking gear and safety equipment

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