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Denali is North America’s highest mountain and one of its most impressive in terms of sheer mass, weather and climbing history. The classic West Buttress Route requires only intermediate technical climbing skills; but perseverance, intense physical exertion, teamwork and patient acclimatization are all necessary for this climb. Many climbers find this to be the most challenging thing they have done in the mountains.
From the town of Talkeetna, we fly to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier Basecamp situated between the spectacular peaks of Foraker and Hunter. From there the route is undertaken "expedition style" - carrying high and sleeping low, in a series of four camps.This unforgettable climb has long been regarded as as a world-class expedition challenge, comparable to the Himalayan giants, and must of any high altitude climber.
Given the rigors of this expedition we suggest participants have previous training and high altitude expedition experience. For those with little experience we suggest, as an example, the following progression:
Elevation: 7,000 feet / 2134 meters
We will drive several hours to Talkeetna. If weather permits, we will fly into the Kahiltna Glacier with Doug Geeting Air Taxi. There will be a Glacier Expedition Orientation that will cover the following topics: Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue, Sled Rigging, Rope Management and Camp Site Procedures. Establish Base Camp at 7,000 feet. If you do not fly in off the mountain, meals will be on your own. We will camp in Talkeetna if necessary.
Elevation: 7,770 feet / 2368 meters
Just south of the junction to the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Moderate carry of about 9 miles round-trip. You will return to Base Camp. Throughout the expedition you will follow the "climb high, sleep low" technique, for better acclimatization. On the late May and June Expeditions, you may be doing your climbing at night to avoid the excessive heat and soft snow conditions.
Elevation: 13,300 feet / 4054 meters
Steep snow climbing up Motorcycle Hill, with spectacular views as your reward! 4+ miles round-trip. Sleds are getting lighter, air is getting thinner, and views are awesome!
Elevation: 16,100 feet / 4907 meters
If possible continue on the West Buttress to 17,200 feet. Cache supplies and return to 14,300 feet. Climbing up the Headwall (fixed line is from 15,500 to 16,100 feet) with a heavy pack, is one of the most strenuous days of the trip, because of the steepness, heavy pack and lack of oxygen. This is high altitude climbing!
You will only try for the Summit when the weather is good: mostly clear and calm! Count on eight to twelve hours or more for the round- trip climb. You probably will not feel normal up at 20,320 feet! Being short of breath and just a general yuck feeling is normal for high altitude climbing. This is supposed to be fun. Usually you will depart camp early (7-9 a.m.), climb up to Denali Pass (18,000 feet) and follow the mellow route past Arch Deacon's Tower and the Football Field to the slopes leading to the Summit Ridge. On this ridge you can usually see down into the Ruth Glacier and view peaks like the Moose's Tooth, Mt. Huntington and more. If the weather is good, you will always remember this view!!!
The descent will take one or two days. Usually you descend to 14,300 feet, 11,000 feet or lower. And then on to Base Camp. If it is not too late in the day, you will fly out to Talkeetna soon after you arrive in base camp. Food and showers in Talkeetna!!!!
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