Argentina by Bike

Day 1-2: Tucumán to Cafayate

We begin our journey with a short drive out of Tucumán, past sugar cane and citrus plantations, the foothills of the Andes already visible in the distance. Soon we’ll be climbing through a verdant cloud forest, en route to Tafí del Valle. This beautiful town is situated in a hanging valley, known as the “Holy Valley” by the pre- Columbian peoples, at an altitude of 2014m (6,610ft). En route we’ll stop for lunch with our friend Soraya, a lovely character who also happens to cook a sublime cuisine based on a combination of colonial recipes and centuries-old indigenous crops. From here we’ll carry on to the mountain pass of El Infiernillo (3000 m/9,840 ft.), where we’ll mount our bikes and descend into the Valley of Calchaqui, passing beautiful cardon cactus landscapes along the way. Duly pedaled-out and satisfied, we’ll then drive straight to the hotel in time for cocktails and a little hands-on empanada-making, before enjoying a traditional Argentine Sunday feast: the asado, or BBQ! Tomorrow we’ll pedal from the gates of our hotel, passing the renowned vineyards of the Esteco winery, en route to the village of San Carlos. San Carlos was one of the first “posts” set up by the Spanish colonizers in what is now Argentina; after exploring its historical offerings, we’ll cycle back to the hotel to enjoy an exquisite lunch while gazing out over the vineyards and the Andes in the distance. This afternoon will be free to either take advantage of the hotel’s luxurious wine spa, to explore Cafayate’s colonial streets, artisan shops and numerous wine cellars, or to relax in the Patios’ outdoor swimming pool. Later we’ll partake in a delicious wine tasting led by the former winemaker of Esteco. We’ll then head off to dinner at a fabulous boutique winery that has a spectacular view over the village of Cafayate

Day 3-4: Salta, Colonial Gem of the North

Biking directly from the hotel, we bid farewell to Cafayate and begin our journey north with panoramic views of the Quebrada de las Conchas (also known as the “Gorge of the shells” due to the amount of marine fossils it contains). This is a colourful landscape of rolling hills and mountains where Incan trails abound. Eventually we will reach the charming Parador de las Cabras, where we will cool off with a dip in the pool and recharge our batteries with a light and delicious lunch before the 90-minute drive to Salta. The largest city of the Argentine northwest, Salta is the capital of the province that shares its name, and is perhaps the bestpreserved colonial city in the country. Among Argentines it is known as La Linda (“The Beautiful”), and it has only recently been discovered by foreigners. After the last couple of days of quietude and relative isolation, the energy of Salta will prove a welcome contrast. We of course will be staying in the heart of the city; and this evening, we’ll be guided through Salta’s historical by-ways by our local expert, the lovely and talented Salteña Ana, before dining at a local hot spot run by our favourite chef, Gonzalo: a strapping Argentine gentleman of Basque descent who studied gastronomy in California. (How’s that for cross-culturalism!). The following morning we’ll drive to San Lorenzo where we’ll enjoy a leisurely ride through the surrounding countryside where many wealthy Saltañans have their weekend villas. Lunch will be in the former Jesuit and gaucho town of La Caldera, in a three hundred year old Jesuit building which is now the home of Florencia, our hostess. After lunch there will be an option to bike a little more; otherwise, you may return directly to the hotel. In the late afternoon we’ll explore the unique High Altitude Museum, dedicated to the three mummified Incan children uncovered during a recent archaeological expedition in the Andes. Duly satisfied— both physically and historically—we will then enjoy an evening on our own, shopping and dining in the city’s innumerable boutiques, restaurants and cafés.

Day 5-6: Cloud Forests and Canyons

A short drive takes us out of Salta to La Caldera, where we’ll ride through an incredible cloud forest, following a route that both the Incan and Spanish empires used during their conquests of this part of South America. Today we’ll witness an incredible diversity of landscapes and colours as we move from rich, verdant jungle to the spectacularly polychromatic Humahuaca Canyon. Humahuaca is a pleasant onslaught of hues and tones— grey rocks infused with greens, purples, blues and reds. (It is little wonder that the canyon, along with the towns and ruins it contains, was declared a UNESCO Heritage Site in 2003.) En route we’ll lunch in the province of Jujuy, at a family run sugar plantation, Finca Los Lapachos, where owners Richard and Caroline Leech will be our gracious hosts. Our final destination of the day will be just a few hundred kilometers from Bolivia in the Andean village of Purmamarca, the “Town of the Seven Colours,”. After freshening up, you may want to explore the village Artisan market before we go to dinner at a local establishment. The following day we’ll drive up to Cuesta de Lipán (4170 m/13,680 ft.), a mountain pass on the road to Chile and Bolivia. The views of the valleys and multicoloured hills here are breathtaking! Naturally, we’ll start cycling at the highest point, descending to Salinas Grandes, an ocean of salt flats that are perfect for exploring on foot (the altitude here can make for chilly riding—gloves and layers are a must!). Post-ride, a welldeserved lunch awaits in our hotel’s shady courtyard. Later, those craving more activity can hike to Los Colorados, a red rock formation beyond the town of Purmamarca. Our trip to the great northwest culminates in a splendid final-night feast at a hidden gem of a venue that will remain, for the time being, our secret!

Day 7: Adios y Buenos Tardes

After breakfast this morning, we drive to the airport in Salta in time for you to catch flights to Buenos Aires and beyond.