Eldorado Peak - Advanced Beginner Summit Climb

Day 1:

We drive from Seattle to the trailhead located on the Cascade River Road a few miles below Cascade Pass (3 hrs). The approach up Eldorado Creek is strenuous and notorious for its steepness and directness. With solid fitness, however, it goes quickly and the angle eases off after about 3 hours. We start out in dense, old growth forest, then pass through some steep boulder fields and clusters of Mountain Hemlock before arriving in the alpine zone where the mighty Johannesburg Peak dominates the view. A low camp can be made here or, if time and fitness allow, we can move up to bivouac spots at the base of the Eldorado Glacier.

Day 2:

The second day is dedicated to teaching the essentials of glacier travel. We begin with learning basic climbing skills, ice axe usage, self arrest, and balance positioning. In the afternoon we can work on roped team travel, route finding, and hazard assessment with an introduction to crevasse rescue and possibly move camp or go on a glacier tour.

Day 3:

After an alpine start we climb up toward the summit via the Eldorado and Inspiration Glaciers and the East Ridge. Depending on conditions, the pace of the group, and the location of high camp, it takes from three to six hours to reach the summit. From the top at 8,868 feet, we have stunning views of the heart of the North Cascades and spine of the Cascade Crest. Our descent reverses the approach route. Expect to be back in Seattle by 5-6 pm.