Talking to an expert is 100% free. We want to help you plan an unforgettable trip.
Elevation: 8,815 feet / 2687 meters
Fred Beckey's "Cascade Alpine Guide" pretty much says it all - calling Forbidden's NW Face an "exceptional climb of purity...its mixed character requires some genuine climbing and flexible alpine skills." Fred, joined by Ed Cooper (another esteemed Cascadian climber) made the first ascent in July of 1959 and the route's renowned status remains intact to this day. Presenting the classic alpine climbing dilemma - to "carry-over" with overnight packs, or go light-and-fast from a high bivouac - many consider this route to be one of the best in an area known for great climbing. Intricate in approach, committing and aesthetic, the NW Face is actually more of a "rib" starting low on the remote Forbidden Glacier and taking a plumb line to the summit. Climbers approach logistics for this route in one of two ways: either with an almost complete circumnavigation of the peak via the Quien Sabe, Boston, and Forbidden Glaciers (the "carry-over" option); or by climbing up the West Ridge couloir to a good bivy and then a series of rappels down steep snow and rock to the glacier below (the "high bivy" option). Once en route, expect to find solid rock and fun climbing in a wild and remote setting. This is one of the most sought-after alpine routes in the North Cascades!
Each year we offer one scheduled climb at a discounted rate and during the "prime" of the season. Otherwise, all other climbs can be scheduled and priced on a custom basis.
Summit day - a very early start is required. A quick descent of the Forbidden Glacier brings us to the base of the NW Face proper. Traditionally, the best way to get on the route is on the west side and a few hundred feet up from the toe of the rib. Great climbing up defined ridge features, with the occasional mixed snow section leads to the upper face and the most aesthetic part of the climb - mid-fifth class climbing up a steepening rib directly to Forbidden's summit. Descent is made down the West Ridge route (a classic in its own right). Once back in Boston Basin we should be able to make it back to the trailhead by early evening.
(Optional Approach) If climbers decide to do the other approach, the itinerary will roughly go as follows - Day 1: Approach Boston Basin and climb the West Ridge Couloir to small, established bivouac spots at its top. Day 2: Rappel down north side of the West Ridge (3-5 rappels) to the base of the NW Face, climb the route, and descend the West Ridge back to the bivouac. Day 3: Descend the couloir into Boston Basin and hike out. NOTE: This approach makes for a very strenuous first day but more leisurely climb and descent. The most technical part of the climb is done with a day pack.
Customizing a trip is a great way to:
Or fill out the form below and we'll get back to you within the hour (during business hours).
