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How do you improve upon the already classic Forbidden Peak? By adding an ascent of Mount Torment, and climbing a mile of snow, ice, and rock ridge in between the two peaks! Since its inclusion in Jim Nelson’s “50 Favorite Climbs of North America,” the Torment-Forbidden Traverse (TFT) has become a very sought after and more frequently attempted alpine climb. Consider that in 1958 (after doing their first ascent of Torment’s South Ridge), Ed Cooper and Walt Sellers intentionally bivouacked without overnight gear in order to get the first ascent of this classic climb.
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