(Flight time: approx 30 min) We make an early departure from the hotel to the domestic terminal of Kathmandu's Tribhuvan Airport for the flight to Pokhara. The short flight is spectacular with views of the main Himalayan chain including the 8000-metre peaks of Manaslu and Annapurna. After arriving in Pokhara we are transferred to our lakeside hotel in time for lunch. The afternoon is free for us to do our own exploring. It is well certainly worthwhile hiring a boat for a row out on the lake (Phewa Tal), which is the second largest in Nepal. Pokhara has an interesting old area as well as an elaborate Hindu temple and a Buddhist monastery. The lakeside area has good shopping opportunities and internet cafés. In the evening there is the option to dine out at one of the many fine lakeside restaurants (cost not included).

(Trekking: approx 6 hours) Before leaving Kagbeni we have to complete special permit formalities as we enter the restricted zone. The trail then climbs above the village and continues on a series of short ascents and descents on the east bank of the Kali Ghandaki. Whilst the valley floor is a flat river plain, it cannot be followed due to the number of river crossings that would need to be made. On the west bank we soon see the Gompa Kang Monastery, belonging to the Nyingmapa sect. The high trail that disappears into the barren distance leads to the Dolpo region. The first village from Kagbeni is Tangbe (2940m), located above the valley and identified by a trio of black, red and white chortens (Buddhist shrines). The village itself is a maze of whitewashed, flat- roofed houses linked by narrow alleyways. We take lunch close to the village near fields of buckwheat and apple orchards. The afternoon walk is shorter and we should reach Chuksang in a further two hours. Again we follow the east bank until we reach the confluence of Narshang Khola and the Kali Ghandaki. The village is split into three sections and the remains of an old fort can be seen close by. The scenery is totally unlike the traditional views one sees of Nepal; here the terrain is barren and very similar to that associated with Tibet. From our camp, huge red and orange sculptured cliffs with inaccessible caves dominate the opposite side of the valley.

(Trekking: approx 4 hours) From the village we descend steeply past a red, black, yellow and white chorten nearly 60 metres into a deep ravine before inevitably climbing out and descending again into another canyon. We then ascend and continue our climb through an area of shrub juniper. It takes nearly two hours to reach a small ridge at 3750 metres after which a short descent leads to a couple of tea houses at Shangmochen and a welcome break. We ascend again to reach another pass at 3770 metres, where we enter a huge east-west valley. Here we bear to the right and drop down to Gheling, where we make camp close to the extensive barley fields. It is a long morning’s walk, but we have kept the afternoon free to assist with our acclimatisation.

(Trekking: approx 5 hours) After spending part of the morning exploring Tsarang, we descend from the village into the Tsarang River canyon before ascending a stony trail heading north, with fine views behind us of the Nilgiri, Tilicho and Annapurna ranges to the south. The trail passes an isolated chorten and spectacular caves etched into the surrounding cliffs, before reaching a ridge at 3850 metres for our first views of Lo Manthang and the spectacular scenery of the Mustang Khola and the snow-capped peak of Mansail in the west. From the ridge we descend to a small river and climb briefly to enter the fabled walled city from the north-eastern corner.

(Trekking: approx 5 hours) Our return route has a few variations from the approach. The trail to the interesting monastery at Lo Gekar follows a minor path, away from the major route. We follow herders’ tracks up to a pass with final views of Lo Manthang before crossing into another valley and climbing to the valley head at 4050 metres. A further ascent and descent across two more valleys leads to a steep ascent and descent to the fertile valley and the monastery at Lo Gekar.

(Trekking: approx 5-6 hours) From the camp we ascend to a ridge marked by a cairn and then continue to climb until we meet the trail that comes from Tsarang. We head to a pass and then descend steeply into Gheling Valley, where we rejoin the trail used on our approach. We retrace our steps back to Samar with a final steep climb to the campsite.

(Trekking: approx 4 hours) We retrace our steps through a barren, almost moon-like landscape dotted with patches of green cultivation. Man-made canals cut across the terrain, irrigating the crops and fruit trees. We lunch at Eklaibhati. Heading south, the wide, windswept valley floor has little fertile land, which means a hard existence for the inhabitants of the Upper Kali Gandaki. After a few hours following the valley downstream we arrive back at Jomsom, a dusty and windswept town where we spend the night in a lodge to await our flight back to Pokhara the following morning.

(Flight time: approx 30 min) After breakfast we are transferred back to the airport in the morning for our return flight to Kathmandu. On arrival in Kathmandu we are met and transferred back to our starting hotel. The rest of the day is free to do souvenir shopping or further sightseeing. Located in the south of the city, Patan is also worth a visit with its own Durbar Square full of historic structures and statues of past kings. Our final night in Kathmandu gives us a chance to go out on the town and enjoy a final dinner (optional) with our travelling companions and new-found friends. (You can extend your trip and combine your trek with a wildlife adventure by connecting with our 'Chitwan Safari Extension' program directly from Pokhara. Those doing so will instead be transferred from Pokhara to Chitwan National Park on Day 18 - a drive of about 3½ to 4 hours. On completing this program they will then be driven from Chitwan back to Kathmandu. Please consult us or your travel agent for further details.)