Enchanted Galapagos

This morning we are transferred to the airport for our flight to the Galapagos Islands. Lunch is normally served on the flight. On arrival at Baltra Airport in the Galapagos you must pay the US$100 arrival tax for entry to Galapagos National Park. This is best done using cash, as using credit cards can be a time consuming process. We are met in the arrival hall of the airport by our National Park Guide, and transferred to the 'San Jose'.p /> Once settled on board, our cruise departs for Las Bachas, which was so named after the barges abandoned by the American Navy here in the 1940’s. The sandy, white beaches of Las Bachas on the north shore of Santa Cruz Island are a nesting site for the Pacific green turtle, and marine iguanas are also commonly seen. The sand here is particularly white and soft as it is made of decomposed coral. The rocks provide great snorkelling and are the perfect habitat for the Sally Lightfoot crabs, which are plentiful on the island. A saltwater lagoon near to the beach is home to flamingo and whimbrel, and look out too for great blue herons.

Today we wake up on the South Coast of Isabela Island, the largest of the Galapagos Archipelago. Isabela was formed by five giant volcanic craters, all of which are still considered active. The island is located in one of the youngest geological areas in the world, having been formed less than 1 million years ago. This southern coast of turquoise blue waters has the largest area of beaches in the Galapagos. We visit Las Tintoreras, where from the viewing walkway you can look down into this narrow channel to see a colony of white-tipped reef sharks swimming and sleeping, and the occasional playful sea lion among them! Blue-footed boobies and penguins, marine iguanas and crabs also make their home here, and the waters provide further opportunities to swim with turtles. Here we also visit the Giant Tortoise breeding centre and the Wall of Tears, constructed from lava by prisoners of the penal colony here between 1946 and 1959 as punishment.

Sailing along Isabela’s west coast is an exploration of Galapagos history, both natural and man-made. The shoreline has long provided a safe harbour for ships and was also the site of an astonishing geological uplift in the 1950s, when Volcan Alcedo erupted, the coastline rising as much as 1km out of the sea. 

This morning we visit Punta Moreno and Elizabeth Bay. On the sSouth- wWestern side of Isabela, Punta Moreno has an impressive landscape of Black lava flows and brackish lagoons which are magnet for wildlife. Here amongst the unusual vegetation we are likely to spot Darwin’s finches, Galapagos Doves, blue-footed boobies, mockingbirds and flightless cormorants. From here we have spectacular views of the Alcedo, Sierra Negra and Cerro Azul Volcanoes 

The jagged, rocky islets of Elizabeth Bay make for classic Galapagos exploration, with an abundance of life on land and underwater. In the sheltered passages and coves fringed with mangrove forests, rays and many turtles are often seen, as well as sea lions resting on fallen trees. Elsewhere, trails through the sharp lava terrain get you among penguins and Sally Lightfoot crabs. Elizabeth Bay is also the finest place in the Galapagos for seeing shearwaters 

Further north, Tagus Cove is a beautiful spot – a sheltered anchorage protected by two volcanoes. The name of this small cave originated from a British warship which sailed through the islands in 1814 looking for the Galapagos Tortoise for use as food; the walls of the cave display maritime inscriptions left by the sailors of this era. The waters are alive with marine life here – look out for dolphins and penguins, and perhaps even sunfish. A hike uphill takes us past a saltwater lagoon and through palo santo forest to Punta Tortuga, where the views back down to the cove and lagoon are breathtaking. The trail is also a great opportunity to see Galapagos hawks.

This morning we visit nearby Fernandina Island, the youngest of the Galapagos Islands. The northeast tip, Punta Espinosa is a narrow ledge of lava and sand extending from the base of La Cumbre volcano. Here we walk on Pahoehoe lava and can see lava Cactus., Iit is also a great place for encounters with marine iguanas and flightless cormorants, drying their atrophied wings among the stark volcanic landscape. 

In the afternoon we visit Isabela’s northwest tip, Punta Vicente Roca, it is a stunning spot. Here, exploration in panga boats gets us close to volcanic sea cliffs where penguins and flightless cormorants can be spotted, while a snorkel in the waters reveals one of the archipelago’s greatest places for swimming among green sea turtles, as well a huge number of fish. We might just get to swim with marine iguanas and penguins as well!

Today we visit some wonderful places. Espumilla Beach, on the northern coast of Santiago Island in James Bay, is one of the most idyllic locations in the Galapagos Islands and is an important nesting site for marine turtles. Espumilla beach is also well known for it’s Palo Santo Forest and some extraordinary lava formations. This morning we also visit Caleta Bucanero (Buccaneer Cove), a natural monument of rocks caused by sea erosion. This cove was used by pirates to careen their ships. It is a place of local legends and stories! 

Port Egas is a black sand beach located on the west side of James Bay and northwest of Santiago Island. South of the beach is Sugarloaf Volcano, which has deposits of volcanic tuff. This site is named Puerto Egas, after Hector Egas who last attempted to mine salt here. The walk along the beach offers hundreds of marine iguanas, California sea lions and Galapagos fur sea lions.

Rabida, also known as ‘Jervis’ is a tiny island sitting roughly 5 kilometres south of Santiago and is one of the most striking of the archipelago. Introduced species were eradicated in 1971, meaning that the indigenous wildlife has now been returned to a state of splendid isolation. Additionally, volcanic activity here has produced vivid, fantastical colours, not least the beaches of red sand and cliffs of scarlet. From the shore, the trail leads through to what is one of the finest lagoons in the Galapagos for viewing flamingos. Rabida is also a wonderful place to spot nesting pelicans. Elsewhere, pintail ducks, marine iguanas and sea lions are all present. 

Sombrero Chino is a small islet located near the south-east coast of Santiago. It's shaped like a Chinese hat (Sombrero Chino) when seen from afar and is geologically fascinating, with many lava tubes leading from the cone to the coast.

Today we visit Santa Cruz, the second largest island in the Galapagos. The small town of Puerto Ayora is the economic centre of the archipelago, and home to the Charles Darwin Research Station. As well as undertaking vital conservation work, the station also makes for interesting exploration and offers the best opportunities for close encounters with giant tortoises, including the famous ‘Lonesome George’, the last tortoise of his sub-species (one of 11 sub-species native to the islands). We also observe baby tortoises and land iguanas. Afterward we head up into the highlands for a total change of scenery. Beginning at the coast we travel across Santa Cruz through the agricultural region and into the misty forests. Here it is a lush humid zone containing miconia bushes, scalesia and inactive volcanic cones. Santa Cruz has more endemic plants than any of the other islands and we are likely to see Galapagos giant tortoises in their natural habitat and perhaps even the bright red feathers of a vermillion flycatcher!

Today we take and early morning excursion to Caleta Tortuga Negra (Black Turtle Cove) - a red mangrove wetland on the north shore of Santa Cruz Island. We paddle among the cove’s peaceful waters, for our first taste of the underwater riches of these waters – it’s a wonderful place to see green turtle and is a nursery for rays and Galapagos sharks. There is also abundant birdlife, such as the yellow warbler and lava heron. This is also a breeding area for turtles, so it is not uncommon to see them mating. 

After lunch we visit the small sandy island of Mosquera, it’s a relaxing, picturesque stop. Along the rocks and in the tide pool, sally lightfoot crabs (red lava crabs) scamper back and forth, skipping across small pools of water in search of food. These crabs with their bright red shell tops and blue under shells are stunning against the black lava. 

Ever aware of movement around them, the sally lightfoot is quick to escape from any approaching movement, a natural defencse that helps protecting them from their natural predators, herons, moray eels and hawkfish. This quick escape technique seems in stark contrast to the unabashed way the crabs climb over the sedentary marine iguanas. 

This is our final excursion before we return to the airport in Baltra for our flight back to Quito. As you will be leaving the boat this morning, please remember that if you have enjoyed the services provided by your guide and crew, a tip would be very much appreciated by them. As a guideline we recommend each passenger consider US$15 per day for the crew and US$10 per day for your guide. You can leave tips in envelopes that are placed in your cabin on this last day of your journey. Upon arrival in Quito Airport you are transferred back to our hotel for an overnight stay.

Your 'Enchanted Galapagos Voyage' comes to an end today after breakfast.