Mont Blanc Ascent - Alpine Climbing

Day 1: Arrive in Argentiere

Rendezvous at the group's chalet in Argentiere (altitude 1240m/4660ft.), just outside Chamonix. Here, you will be welcomed and made to feel at home. In the evening, we will have an informal chat about the week ahead. There will also be a chance for the guide to check out your clothing and gear and to decide if you will need to pick up any further items of equipment before setting out in the morning. KE Land Only package services begin with the evening meal, an excellent 3-course dinner. Meals included: Dinner (D)

Day 2: Ascend to the hut and practice snow skills

To assist with our acclimatisation, we plan to spend tonight in the Albert Premier hut in preparation for an ascent of the Petite Fourche (3,520m.) the following day. We will have a fairly leisurely start this morning and there will be time to sort out ill-fitting boots and re-pack our rucksacks before leaving. We will take the cable car from Le Tour to the Col de Balme (2130m.) and from here, walk alongside the Glacier de Tour for two hours to reach the Albert Premier Hut (2707m.). Alternatively we may drive (1 hour) to Champex in Switzerland and take the chair lift up to La Breya, from where we have a beautiful 2 hours walk to the Orny hut at 2,831m. Alpine refuges are fantastic places. There is invariably a sunny terrace, on which we can enjoy a beer or an espresso coffee, together with freshly baked pie. After a rest, there is the opportunity to go out on to the glacier to practice snow and ice skills. Tonight, we will certainly have earned our three-course meal in the refuge. Accommodation is in dormitories, with slippers, blankets and pillows provided. (B,D)

Day 3: Petite Fourche

To further our acclimatisation and put our newly honed skills to good use, we make an alpine start for the ascent of the Petite Fourche (3520m.). Starting from the Albert Premiere we begin by crossing the Glacier du Tour to pass the prominant rognon known as Signal Reilly. More straightforward glacier trekking leads to the Col Blanc and we finish the ascent on a spectacular granite ridge. From the summit on a clear day it is possible to see the Matterhorn in the distance. Making our descent from the summit, we then trek over the Swiss border to reach the Trient Hut (3170m.) where we spend the night. (B,D)

Day 4: Aiguille du Tour

We are up bright and early at 5 a.m. As the sun comes up, we will be crunching across the glacier in our crampons. Our goal for the day is to make an ascent of the Aiguille du Tour (3542m.). This is a relatively easy alpine peak with a bit of technical scrambling towards the end. From the summit we can expect a view which stretches all the way from the Matterhorn to Mont Blanc. From the Aiguille du Tour we will cross the border and step back in to France and descend the Le Tour Glacier. Enjoying great views on the way, we eventually reach the Albert Premier hut in time for a pic-nic lunch and have time for a coffee on the sunny terrace. In the afternoon we continue down to the Col de Balme (2,130m.) from where we take the cable car back to Le Tour and return to our chalet base. Tonight, we certainly will have earned a delicious three-course meal at the chalet. (B,D)

Day 5: First day on Mont Blanc

Now that our training is over, we are ready for the ascent of Mont Blanc. The group will be joined by more guides (ratio 2 clients to 1 guide), in order to give us the best chance of success. The route we choose will depend on the prevailing conditions, the group’s ability and ultimately on the guides’ decision. There are two route alternatives for the ascent: either the ‘Normal Route’, via the Dome de Goûter, or the longer Traverse Route which is a more technical ascent of the mountain via Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit, staying at the Cosmique refuge. Because of the high guide to client ratio, we do have the option at this stage to split the group according to fitness and experience.

Day 6: Summit and descend

The Big Day! Whichever route has been chosen, we can expect an early start - approximately 1 a.m. from either the Tete Rousse Hut (normal route) or Cosmiques Refuge (Traverse). On the Normal Route, a rocky scramble leads to the Gouter Hut (3817m.), from where the remaining 1000m. of ascent to the summit of Mont Blanc is on snow. The climbing is never technical, although the final ridge is exposed and can be tricky when windy. We are high up and the air is thin, so slow and steady is the way forward. The ascent can take from 6 to 8 hours of ascent,, returning by the same route. For those attempting the more difficult Traverse Route, after leaving the Cosmiques Hut, the first obstacle is the bergschrund beneath Mont Blanc du Tacul. Thereafter, the climbing is steady, on heavily glaciated snow slopes, averaging 30 to 35 degrees inclination. There are steeper sections, up to 40 or even 50 degrees, notably on the final slopes to the shoulder of Mont Maudit. We will make our descent via the normal route. 6 to 8 hours of ascent. For either route option, we should be on Mont Blanc’s summit (4807m.) just after dawn, in position to enjoy some of the most spectacular views in the whole of Europe. We should be back down in the Tete Rousse hut by early or mid-afternoon (in time for a late lunch). (B,D)

Day 7: Second day for climbing Mont Blanc if required

If we have not summited the day before we make the attempt today as described above. After summiting we will descend via the Normal Route and should be back down in the valley by mid-afternoon, in time for a late lunch or afternoon tea at the chalet. If we have summited on day 6, then we have a leisurely descent to the valley in time for lunch. In the evening, we have the opportunity to reflect on the adventures of the week, during the course of a celebratory dinner at the chalet. (B, L, D)

Day 8: Depart

The KE Land Only package services end after breakfast. (B)