Monte Rosa Climb

Day 1: Arrive in St. Niklaus

The group will rendezvous at the group hotel in St. Niklaus. Here, you will meet your guides and be made to feel at home. In the evening, we will have an informal chat about the week ahead. There will also be a chance for our guide to check out your clothing and equipment and to decide if you will need to pick up any further items of equipment in Zermatt the following morning. KE Land Only package services begin with the evening meal, taken in the hotel restaurant. Included meals: Dinner (D).

Day 2: A training day

From the hotel, we take the train into Zermatt and walk for 15 minutes to the Klein Matterhorn cable car. It’s a spectacular ride up to the mid-station at Trockenersteg at 2939 metres (9642 feet). From here, it is just a short walk up to the Gandegg Hut (3029m / 9938ft). located below the Breithorn on a rock ridge separating the Oberer and the Unterer Theodul glaciers. There are classic views of the Matterhorn and of Monte Rosa from the terrace of the hut. The afternoon is spent with a session of glacier skills training. Overnight in the hut. (B,D).

Day 3: Climb the Breithorn

We make the short descent to the Trockenersteg cable car and use this system to take us to the top of the Klein Matterhorn at 3883 metres. (12,739 feet). Walking straight out of the lift onto the glacial Breithorn Plateau, we put on our crampons and rope up for the ascent of the Breithorn (4164m / 13,661ft). A straightforward snow climb leads to a short, narrow ridge below the summit. There are great views in all directions. We descend to the Breithorn Pass, from where we traverse glacial terrain below the south face of the Breithorn, to a col known as the Schwarztor (3731m / 12,241ft). From this pass, we descend, crossing a glacier to reach the Refugio d’Ayas (3440m / 11,286ft). In all, we have a 2 hour climb to the summit of the Breithorn, followed by a 3 to 4 hour descent to the Refugio d’Ayas. (B,D).

Day 4: Climb Pollux – return to Zermatt

We get an early start and re-ascend to the Schwarztor. From here, we gain the foot of the west ridge of Pollux (4082m / 13,392ft) and climb via rocks and a snow ridge to attain the summit of our second objective. We descend by the same route and retrace our steps back to the Klein Matterhorn lift station after an 8-hour day. We then descend to a well-earned shower at our hotel accommodation in Zermatt. This evening, we have a chance to check out the sights of Zermatt. (B,D).

Day 5: To the Monte Rosa Hut

We have a relaxed start to the day and make any final adjustments for our ascent of Monte Rosa. We then take the Gornergrat Railway to the end of the line and walk for two hours to the Monte Rosa Hut (2795m / 9170ft). En route, we will have time to practice further glacier travel skills or to do a rocky scramble. There is a final, steep ascent to the hut, which is located on the Plattji, an island of rock in the sea of ice of the Gorner, Monte Rosa and Grentz glaciers. From the hut, there are fantastic views of the north faces of the Breithorn and of Liskamm (4479m / 14,695ft). 4 to 5 hours walking. (B,D).

Day 6: Climb Monte Rosa

A very early start this morning, as we set off on the ascent of the Dufourspitze, the highest point of the Monte Rosa Massif. We leave the hut by way of a glacial moraine, which leads, after about 2 hours, to the Monte Rosa Glacier. We reach this glacier just as the sun touches the tops of the Matterhorn, Breithorn, Weisshorn and the Dent Blanche. At first, this glacier is very complex, presenting a maze of crevasses, which we wind our way through, eventually giving access to the easier slopes of the Sattelltole. From here, a broad slope leads us to a col, known as Sattel (4359m / 14,301), which marks the start of the final 300 metres (1000 feet) of the west ridge. The character of the route finally changes, from open glacial terrain to a narrow, exposed ridge of rock and snow leading us up to the summit. The Dufourspitze is a fine viewpoint. The descent is made via the same route. A welcome lunch can be obtained on our arrival back at the Monte Rosa Hut. We spend a second night here. 7 to 8 hours of ascent and 4 hours of descent. (B,D).

Day 7: An easy descent to Zermatt

After a leisurely breakfast, we make our way back to Zermatt via the Gornergrat Glacier and railway. This descent takes around 3 hours. After booking into our hotel in Zermatt there is time to look around or relax before dinner. (B,D).

Day 8: Services end after breakfast

KE Land Only package services end after breakfast.