Mountains of the Moon - Trekking in the Rwenzori

Day 1: Arrive Entebbe

Rendezvous in the afternoon at the group guesthouse in Entebbe. Shuttle-bus transfers are provided free of charge. Entebbe is situated on the shores of Lake Victoria, 30 kilometres (18 miles) from the capital, Kampala. Time permitting, we have independent sightseeing in Kampala. There has been a settlement on this site for rather more than a hundred years, but city status was achieved only in 1962. This is the greenest city in Africa, with surrounding forest and parkland and yet it is very much the commercial heart of Uganda. It retains a traditional charm and this is most in evidence at the colourful produce markets and in the wide choice of restaurants reflecting the cultural diversity of the region. KE Land Only services begin with the evening meal. Overnight at the group guesthouse in Entebbe. Included meals: Dinner (D)

Day 2: Drive to Ibanda

Our approach to the Rwenzoris involves a journey on good tarmac roads, westwards for 400 kilometres (250 miles), through Mbarara, to the small town of Kasese. En route, we pass through the western end of the Rift Valley and the beautifully green and rolling landscape of Uganda. We also cross the equator on a couple of occasions. Our overnight stop is at the roadhead settlement of Ibanda (1600m. / 5250ft.), where there is basic accommodation and camping at the park headquarters. It is here that we will meet our trek crew of Bakonjo porters. There are also various park entry formalities to be completed, in readiness for our departure the next morning. (B,L,D)

Day 3: Trek to Nyabitaba Hut

The start of our walk-into the mountains takes us through plantations of bananas and coffee and the farmsteads of the local, Bakonjo people. We cross the Mahoma River and trek for a total of around 5 hours, through luxuriant forest to reach Nyabitaba Hut (2650m. / 8695ft.). This hut is located on a ridge in the forest and commands excellent views of the Bujuku Valley and of the Portal Peaks. The original hut system built by the Mountain Club of Uganda was extensively overhauled in the 1980’s by the Rwenzori Mountain Service, with many new huts being erected. We stay in huts on each of the nights on trek. Each evening, the porters prepare their traditional mutoki (banana porridge) in a huge communal pot on a charcoal fire. There are likely to be blue monkeys in the vicinity of the hut. (B,L,D)

Day 4: Trek to John Matte Hut

The day begins with a half hour descent through thick forest to the confluence of the rivers Bujuku and Mubuku. The Kurt Schaffer Bridge (built in 1989) makes the crossing of the Bujuku River a formality. Previously, the river had to be forded and was a truly perilous undertaking. After a long morning’s walk through giant groundsel and heather forest, a useful lunch stop is at the Nyamileju Hut. The path then climbs steadily for a further hour or so to our overnight halt at the John Matte Hut (3350m. / 10991ft.). This is an excellent hut, the best on the circuit. John Matte (now retired) was for many years the valued retainer of the Mountain Club of Uganda. Parts of today’s walk are characterized variously by dense foliage, tangled tree roots and a profusion of jumbled boulders. It is the original rocky mountain way. This is tough trekking, as we have to concentrate on every step. 5 - 6-hours. (B,L,D)

Day 5: Trek to Lake Bujuku Hut

A magnificent day, initially through the lower of the two Bigo Bogs. Here, the surest way to make forward progress is to step from one tussock of grass to the next, trying to avoid falling off into the morass in between. Wellington boots are a must for this stage. The upper Bigo Bog has the remains of a board-walk which was built to reduce environmental impact. These are currently in a state of disrepair and there are plans to replace them. We pass Cooking Pot Cave, en route to Lake Bujuku and then encounter arguably the muddiest section of the whole trek on the final one and a half hour stomp around the lake and then up to the Lake Bujuku Hut (3900m. / 12,796ft.). Given good weather, there are fine views from this hut of the Stanley Plateau, including the peaks of Stanley, Speke and Baker. Approximately 5 hours trekking. (B,L,D)

Day 6: Trek to Elena Hut

Heading southwards now, we negotiate a steep and winding path through a forest of giant groundsel. The last hour of today’s trek negotiates a series of vegetated ledges, including a section of ladders, before arriving at the Elena Hut (4541m. / 14,899ft.) at the foot of the Elena Glacier. An excellent day, as the scenery is superb and for a third of it we are on rock and scree, away from the mud and jungle. We aim to arrive at the hut by lunchtime, which gives us all afternoon to enjoy the views and to rest in preparation for our climb on the following day. Approximately 3 hours walking. (B,L,D)

Day 7: Ascent of Margherita, Mount Stanley

Margherita (5109m / 16,762ft) is the highest summit of Mount Stanley and the third highest peak in Africa. It is reached via a steep scramble and glacier climb in a 7 to 8 hours round trip. The route starts out with a section of rock scrambling, using fixed rope where necessary. Approximately one hour after leaving the hut, we gain the ridge and traverse left to the glacier. This requires delicate descent down an icy gully and a traverse across a rock slab above small cliffs. The guides will fix ropes on this section. After ascending the glacier, there is also something of a “sting in the tail,” in the form of the final rock step and scramble to the summit. The gradual melting away of the glaciers on Margherita has left a short (4m. / 13ft.) near vertical wall at the base of the summit ridge. This requires the use of a rope to protect this section. Prior to making the ascent, there will be the opportunity to demonstrate the techniques of ascending and descending fixed lines, using prussik loops as safety devices. On the initial part of the descent, we may need to lower group members from the rock step back down to the glacier. It is worth noting that Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman climbed the wrong mountain twice, before finally topping out on Margherita - simply because they lost their direction in the infamous mist. This is an optional climb as it is a testing scramble and conditions can make it difficult. Return to overnight at the Elena Hut. (B,L,D)

Day 8: Trek to Kitandara Hut

After the exertions of yesterday, this is an easy day of 3 to 4 hours trekking. We have a leisurely start to the day, spending time at the Scott Elliot Pass, which is one of the most desolate and beautiful spots in the Rwenzori, with Mount Baker (4842m. / 15,887ft.) visible to the south. Towering grey walls, streaked with yellow lichen and mosses, overshadow the path as we drop down to the Kitandara Lakes and the Kitandara Hut (3990m. / 13,091ft.) our overnight objective, which is situated on the shores of the main lake. (B,L,D)

Day 9: Ascent of Mount Baker

Kitandara is a majestic spot. Its diversity of flora and fauna will keep those interested in natural history captivated all day. However, for most group members, the main business of the day will be the ascent of the third highest peak of the Rwenzori, Mount Baker. This peak presents a long day-climb (9 to 10 hours) and a most memorable outing. The route, via the south ridge is never too demanding, but does involve superb scrambling in an excellent position, with views over the green canopy of the Congo Basin. This would be a classic climb anywhere in the world. The final 100m. / 300ft. of the climb involves a short and tricky descent into a rocky gulley, before regaining the easy scrambling ground. A rope is fixed on this part of the route. Overnight at the Kitandara Hut. (B,L,D)

Day 10: Trek to Guy Yeoman Hut

It is time to start the trek back to the roadhead at Ibanda. Our route follows the valley of the River Mubuku, which is reached by climbing steeply to the Freshfield Pass (4215m / 13,829ft) and then descending to the Bujongolo Cave, the site of the Duke of Abruzzi’s basecamp in 1906. It was this well organised expedition which made first ascents of the main summits of the Rwenzoris. Continuing our descent, via the Kabamba Cave, we reach the Guy Yeoman Hut (3450m / 11,319ft) after a total of 5 hours walking. (B,L,D)

Day 11: Trek to Ibanda, drive to Queen Elizabeth Reserve

Our last day, but if anything one of the hardest trekking days. If we are not clambering over slippery boulders and tree roots or wading up to our knees in mud, we are cutting our way through bamboo jungle with pangas (machetes). After 4 to 5 hours we complete our circuit by arriving back at Nyabitaba Hut. Then, after a brief rest, we press on to the roadhead at Ibanda. Here it is time to say goodbye to our Bakonjo staff and board our transport for the short drive to the Queen Elizabeth Game Reserve. After completing the park registration and stopping off for a cold beer at the lodge, we drive to Mweya at the edge of the Kazinga Channel and set up our bush camp. This is a fantastic ending to a unique experience and a chance to enjoy a well-earned barbecue meal under the stars. (B,L,D)

Day 12: Game drives in the park

The Queen Elizabeth National Park straddling the equator, contains lush savannah grasses, rainforest, freshwater lakes, volcanic craters. It is Uganda’s best wildlife park, with all the East African big game present. We have an early start for a game drive in the reserve with the chance to see hippo, warthogs, buffalo, the rare aquatic sitatunga antelope, giant forest hog, Uganda kob, topi, waterbuck, elephant and leopard. We spend a second night at Mweya. (B,L,D)

Day 13: Early morning game drive, head back to the group guesthouse in Entebbe

There is the chance of a final game drive before breakfast, after which we pack up our gear and board our vehicles for the drive back to our guesthouse in Entebbe. We will arrive in good time to freshen up prior to enjoying a celebratory meal in the restaurant. (B,L,D)

Day 14: Depart Entebbe

KE Land Only services end with breakfast. The hotel provides free shuttle-bus transfers to Entebbe Airport. (B,L)