Any fit and experienced adventurer contemplating a more active visit to Europe could not
resist the proposal of climbing the highest peak in the Alps, Mt Blanc (4807m / 15,771
feet).Whilst the range has attracted the attention of world class alpinists worldwide for its
challenging routes for centuries, there are also many options available to the novice climber
under the guidance of our experienced guides.
Acclimatisation and basic technical training are our main focus of the first 3 days. This trip is designed with the beginner mountaineer in mind and these days are spent learning or
brushing up on the basics of travel on snow and ice to help prepare you for the tough climb
ahead. You will also discover many aspects of the amazing Mont Blanc range during these
training days as we venture into the mountains.
Our summit strategy
Days 5 to 7 are for the ascent of Mont Blanc itself – allowing us the advantage of 2 chances
of reaching the summit. If inclement weather conditions prevent us from making a summit
attempt on our scheduled day, we have the flexibility in our program to make a summit
attempt from the lower Tete Rousse hut, staying overnight in the Gouter hut on the descent.
This flexibility gives our groups a significant advantage.
Day 1: Join Chamonix
Please make your way to the group hotel which will be advised in your final documentation (any airport transfer service will take you direct to the hotel reception). A group briefing will be held at 6pm at the hotel reception, it is essential that you attend and bring your equipment with you; you will then proceed to the gear hire shop, Snell Sports, with your guide. Please ensure that your travel arrangements will have you in Chamonix at this time. Overnight at the group hotel.
Day 2: Introduction to mountaineering
The day will be spent learning mountaineering basics on the Tour glacier, including the use of crampons, ice axe and ropes on the glacier, and rope management skills. We hike up to the Albert 1er refuge (2702 m with 700m of those on telepherique) for our nights accom modation. Overnight mountain hut.
Day 3: Ascend Aiguille du Tour or Petite Fourche
Ascent of the Aiguille du Tour (3529 m) by the Tour Glacier, the superior pass of Tour (3289 m). (If there are more than 4 persons in the group then we do not climb the Aiguille du Tour) Technical focus is on belaying on steep snow slopes and efficient movement on snow and ice.Return to Albert 1 hut and down to the valley via the cable car. Overnight Chamonix hotel.
Day 4: Transfer to Les Houches. Hike to Tete Rousse Refuge
Transfer to Les Houches. Our guide will organise the telepherique and train trip to take us to the Plan Lachat. From here, a 3 hour hike brings us to a short, and at times exposed and steep path leading to the Tete Rousse Glacier and hut. As we climb higher above the valley we enter an alpine environment of snow, ice and rock. The views as we approach the Tete Rousse Refuge are breathtaking. The Tete Rousse is a new hut perched on the edge of the glacier in a stunning mountain setting. Today is not a long day, but still quite challenging due to the increasingly rugged terrain. We can expect to reach the hut by mid afternoon, giving plenty of time to recover for the climb to the Gouter Hut the next day.It is important to keep well hydrated. Meals at the hut usually begin with soup accompanied with bread and cheese and followed with hearty and tasty meat casseroles and dessert of fruit puree or similar, normall served around 6.30pm. Our summit strategy
If incliment weather conditions prevent us from making a summit attempt on our scheduled day from the Gouter, we have the flexibility in our program to make a summit attempt from the Tete Rousse hut, staying overnight in the Gouter hut on the descent. This flexibility gives our groups a significant advantage.
Day 5: Ascend to Gouter refuge*
By utilising both the Tete Rousse Refuge and the Gouter hut, we give ourselves the best chance of making a successful summit bid. The route today is steeper and more demanding, and we will be roped up when we leave the Tete Rousse. We soon come to the Grand Couloir and after safely crossing over we continue up through steep terrain. The majority of the route this afternoon involves rockscrambling and we will travel roped up until we reach the hut. The Gouter is an older hut and usually very busy, however it’s closer proximity to the summit puts us in the optimum position for our summit attempt. The evening meal will be served around 6pm allowing for an early night in order to get some sleep before an early rise for our climb to the summit.
*PLEASE NOTE: Throughout the season there are times when the Gouter Hut is overbooked. Availability is controlled by French Alpine Club and allocation of beds is on a random basis and released in mid April each year. Please note that booking in advance is highly recommended but still does not guarantee a bed in the Gouter Hut. If we are unable to secure beds in this hut we will use the Tete Rousse Refuge. Although this makes for a slightly longer summit day, a better nights sleep is likely at this lower altitude, as well as a wider variety of good quality food. Your World Expeditions reservations consultant or travel agent will advise with your final documents if the Gouter Hut is not available for your group.
Day 6: Attempt Mont Blanc Summit
An alpine start this morning (3am), over snow and ice slopes and traversing ridges we ascend to the summit of Mont Blanc. First we will reach the top of the Dome Du Gouter at 4300m. We then pass the Vallot shelter and hike up the Les Bosses ridge and finally after 4 - 5 hours, the summit of Mt Blanc. Weather permitting we savour the stunning mountain views for only a short time before making our descent.The long descent requires concentration and endurance to reach the Nid d’Aigle where we can allow an intermediary rest and quick snack before continuing on to the Bellevue and then by cable car to Les Houches. Overnight at Chamonix hotel.
Day 7: Trip concludes in Chamonix
The trip concludes after breakfast in the hotel.
PLEASE NOTE: The above route and estimated times must be seen as a guide only. This itinerary may change at any time due to weather, snow conditions, group fitness or other reasons. Your guide will always make a final decision after assessing the situation and liaising with the group members.