One of the world’s most renowned and historical mountains, the Matterhorn is a near perfect
pyramid and stands at an altitude of 4478m above sea level. In this challenging expedition
we combine a preparation climb on Weissmies (4017m), the infamous Hornli route on the
Matterhorn, and the South Ridge of the Eiger (3970m). Beginning in Chamonix, the first three
days of the trip are spent training and brushing up on skills with our guide - practising alpine
skills and technique on the traverse of Weissmies before tackling the technical routes on
the Matterhorn and Eiger. This climbing program is designed for experienced climbers and
mountaineers, with a guide to climber ratio of 1:2. The altitude and length of the climbs are
very demanding and an exceptional level of fitness is required.
DAY 1: Join Chamonix. To Weissmies Hut.
Meet your guide at the Hotel Mercure’s front desk in Chamonix at 11:00am. There will be a briefing of the week’s program, plus gear check. Then we will drive to the village of Saas Grund in the Saas valley, and take a cable car up to the Weissmies Hut for overnight.
DAY 2: Weissmies traverse from north to south ridge
Early morning departure to ascend the Lagginjoch (3495m) where we will start climbing the north ridge. The climb is grade 4 maximum with superb aerial passages. From the summit, the view on all the giant peaks of the Valais is magnificent: Mount Rose, Weisshorn, Dom de Mischabel mountain.
Descend by the south ridge, with steps of grade 3 maximum. This chain of ridges will provide excellent training for the Matterhorn. Overnight Almageller Hut. Approx walking/climbing time: 10 hours.
DAY 3: Dri Horlini ridge
Today will be easier with a climb of the Dri Horlini ridge, just behind the hut. The climb is grade 4 and it will take around 4 hours. Descend into the valley to the village of Saas Almagell. Transfer to Saas Grund, and then onto Tasch. Overnight hotel in Tasch.
DAY 4: Hornli Hut (3260m)
Today we transfer by train from Tasch to Zermatt. Upon arrival we will take the Schwarzee cable car and climb up to the Hornlihutte (3260m). Today is an easy day before attempting the summit of the Matterhorn. We will spend the afternoon resting and looking at the ridge above the hut. Approx
walking/climbing time & altitude: 3 hours; +680m
DAY 5: Matterhorn (4478m)
A very early morning start (approx. 3.30am), for a gentle start to the climb. We encounter couloirs, sharp turns, slabs and small rocky walls to reach the Solvay hut. We pass through a few rocky passages and then gain the snow and ice. Fixed ropes facilitate this part of the climb which, at
altitude, becomes quite difficult (grade 3 & 4 rock climbing). With crampons on we will arrive at the summit via a snowy crest happy to have achieved such a historical peak. Today is a 10-12 hour day, and care must be taken on the descent which is via the same route to the valley. Overnight hotel and dinner and in Tasch. Approx walking/climbing time & altitude: 10-12 hours; +1218m / -1800m
DAY 6: Monch Hut (3630m)
Transfer to Grindelwald through the Goppenstein tunnel, and train up to the Jungfraujoch (3450m). Walk approx 30 minutes to the Monch Hut (3630m).
DAY 7: Eiger (3970m)
We will set out early to the base of the Eiger by following the ridgeline with some rocky sections and snow. Then we will commence climbing the south-west ridge (difficulty - grade 3 & 4 rock climbing). As we near the summit, the ridge will become sharper and completely covered in snow. The Eiger summit offers a stunning panoramic view of the Alps. Descend via the same route, with a short abseil of 20 metres, to reach the ridge which will be flatter. Train down to Grindelwald, and drive back to Chamonix. In the event of bad weather or unsafe ridge conditions, we will choose another climb such as at Jungfrau or the north ridge of the Gross Fiescherhorn. Approx walking/ climbing time & altitude: 10-12 hours; +500m / -500m
DAY 8: In Chamonix, trip concludes
After breakfast, our services conclude.