The Basque Pyrénées & Bilbao

In Saint Jean, our walk takes us past the homes of the old quarter, including Maison Louis XIV. This was the temporary residence of the Sun King in 1660, when he came to St. Jean for his marriage to Maria Theresa, the Infanta Castile. Saint Jean Baptiste, the nearby church where Maria Theresa and the king were married, is the largest French Basque church, with huge oak galleries reached by wrought iron staircases. Typical of the Basque love for music, the men sit in the balconies during festivals and masses so that their voices fall while singing, while women sit in the main pews, so that their voices rise. Overnight: Saint Jean-de-Luz Meals: D

Later in the afternoon, our hosts arrange a game of pelota (similar to jai alai) for us with some of the locals. Rural sports play a large role in Basque life and it’s been said that the Basques will bet on anything that has a number and moves. Even poetry and gastronomy become contests, as amateur poets improvise duels, and men-only sociedades gastronómicas compete in cooking contests to see who can make the best marmitako (tuna stew)! Pelota is the most widely known Basque sport and is played in a three-walled court in every little town, with one of the walls often part of the church. Basque farmers, shepherds, even the local priests are drawn to the contests and place bets on the action—something forbidden elsewhere in France. This evening, we settle in for the first of two nights in St.-Etienne De-Baigorry. Overnight: St.-Etienne De-Baigorry Meals: B, D

We break for lunch at either a little venta (a small Basque shop in the mountains) or picnic at a scenic spot to admire the views. After finishing our walk in the mid-afternoon, we leave the Lower Navarra for the Guipuzcoa and three nights in Hondarribia. On our way to San Sebastián, we see how Basques have lived for centuries and how many still live in isolated homesteads of fewer than 30 people. Many Basques living along the coast became expert shipbuilders and seafarers. As early as the 14th and 15th centuries, Basques were venturing as far as Greenland and Newfoundland on whaling and fishing expeditions. This, along with their seafaring nature and their desire to avoid central control, meant that they lived in freedom while many of their European brethren lived in serfdom. By the 15th century, these individual freedoms were enshrined in fueros, a body of ancient laws and privileges that were protected until well into the 19th century. Overnight: Hondarribia Meals: B, D

Mid-morning, we journey a short distance down the hill from Hondarribia to the sea and San Sebastián. We explore the town, learning about its mix of architectural styles. San Sebastián is in many ways more French than Spanish; or at least the most French of Spanish cities. Its shops serve excellent croissants, it was the only city in Spain without a bullring for many years, and its climate is more Atlantic than Mediterranean. Three mountains, Mt. Urge, Mt. Igeldo and Mt. Ullia rise on either side of town and protect it from all northerly winds, making it very temperate. We walk along the beautiful Concha Bay, stopping in the old part of town for a lunch of tapas. Continuing on to the top of Monte Igeldo, we enjoy the most spectacular views of the town and the sea. You can enjoy some time on your own or with our guide exploring the town this afternoon. For dinner this evening we venture just outside of Hondarribia to a little local cider mill. Not only are we the only Americans, we are generally the only tourists here. We enjoy the festive, typically Basque atmosphere, excellent food and, of course, the apple cider. Overnight: Hondarribia Meals: B

After lunch, we walk in the hills above and around San Sebastián, with beautiful views of the river on the Spanish side of the border and the French Basque countryside on the other. Our afternoon walk starts at the top of Jaizcidel and leads down to the ocean. Our last evening together, we dine at a special restaurant very close to the Parador that serves excellent paella— Spain’s famous rice and seafood dish. Overnight: Hondarribia Meals: B, D

We part company in Bilbao in the early afternoon. Here, you may catch a train to Madrid, or if you prefer, you can continue with our guide and van to Biarritz for trains to Paris. Biarritz is a lovely seaside town that became popular in the mid 19th century when the Spanish born Empress Eugénie— wife of Napoléon III whom she met here—brought the entire royal court of the Second Empire to what had been her favorite childhood seaside town. Meals: B