Isles of Sardinia & Corsica Walking Tour

Day 1: Sardinia - Alghero

We meet in Alghero. It's easy to fall in love with the relaxing atmosphere of this beautiful city, where Mediterranean cultures have long mixed with beautiful results. Alghero was conquered by the Aragons from Spain in 1353, and today, almost 700 years later, people still speak Catalan as well as Sardinian. Even the architecture retains a significant Spanish influence. Street signs are in both Catalan and Italian. In Spain, Alghero is referred to as the "tiny Barcelona of Italy". In addition, one of its towers, Torre di Porta a Terra, was built in 1300 as a contribution from Jewish residents to the military efforts of King Pietro III. 

Day 2: Sardinia - Castelsardo / Corsica - Bonifacio

Following breakfast in our hotel overlooking the sea, we journey north and east along the Sardinian coast, where a light walk before lunch leads us to a medieval castle in the town of Castelsardo, perched on the summit of a promontory over a harbor of extraordinarily transparent waters. From nearby Santa Teresa di Gallura, we boat across the eight miles of the Strait of Bonifacio to Corsica, which Balzac described as "a French island basking in the Italian sun." We arrive on Corsica at the ancient fortress town of Bonifacio, dramatically situated atop a white limestone peninsula 180 feet high. 

Day 3: Bonifacio / Sartene / Campomoro

We wake under the vitalizing Corsican sun at our charming hotel. Take a deep breath and enjoy the scent of the maquis. This blanket of fragrant shrubs and flowers covering much of the island is intoxicating. Napoléon Bonaparte, who was born in nearby Ajaccio, swore he could smell the myrtle-scented maquis from the sea. Following breakfast, we set off this morning to the north into the true heart of rustic Corsica. As we move temporarily away from the sea, we find ourselves surrounded by forests of chestnut and pine trees, then rolling hills and olive groves. Local friends who still operate an historic press used to produce the olive oil that was of the highest demand throughout all of Europe in the 17th and 18th centuries invite us in to learn about the technique...and a chance to sample the local specialty served on crusty Corsican bread. 

Day 4: Sardinia - Porto Cervo

This morning, as the sun rises and paints the chalk cliffs orange, join our guide on a memorable walk overlooking the sea toward Cape Pertusato and with views back to Bonifacio. After some time to relax on our return from the walk, you might choose to return for lunch at our favorite restaurant in town, owned by our friend Jacque and his father Marcello, with incredible cuisine and equally satisfying views of the sea. 

Day 5: Sardinia - Scala Pradu

As beautiful as the coast is and we enjoy it immensely there, this is the highlight of our time in Sardinia for us, in the heart of the island where traditions run most deep. In this true, untouristed part of the island, shepherds tend their sheep, farmers often ride to market on donkeys, and Christian religious festivals maintain many of their original pagan roots. Sardinia is also a handicrafts heaven. Locally produced goods include bright woolen shawls and rugs, hand-carved wooden objects, gold filigree jewelry and hand-woven baskets in all shapes and sizes. 

Day 6: Sardinia - Lanaitto Valley

We awake in our beautiful countryside refuge, under beams of old juniper wood and tucked into our antique beds covered with handmade Sardinian fabrics. Our friend Giovanna and her family welcome us into their kitchen to show us how they make their traditional carasau bread. Save room from breakfast, as you'll want to taste the delicious flat bread, which is baked twice and is a favorite among shepherds who take it with them into the mountains. Fortified from our tasting, we follow tranquil paths through a valley in the foothills of the Supremonte Mountains. Our walk ends with a visit to a 3,000- year-old Nuraghic village, one of Sardinia's most important archaeological sites, and one of 7,000 such mysterious structures on the island. The largest and most technically perfect megalithic structures still standing in Europe, these round stone towers were built before 500 B.C. by the island's early inhabitants, the Nuraghi. Exploring the village with our local guide, Fabrizio, a Sardinian native, we discuss the significance of the structures. Midday, we continue on through the Lanaitto Valley, past acres of valleys and forests to the rustic home of our shepherd friend, Tonino. For us, he lays out a lunch spread of fresh ricotta cheese and honey, sausage and bacon, pecorino sheep's milk and caprino goat cheeses, fruit and a homemade digestive liquor. It’s a true locavore experience as we eat in his garden from native cork plates on carved rock tables. Following lunch, Tonino shows us how he works leather and carves wood to produce his famed crafts, and we often lose ourselves in his stories about his life and the history of the area. If you’d like to atone for some of the calories at lunch, join us for an easy afternoon walk through the countryside where oak trees and juniper dominate the vegetation of the valley. If we're lucky, we'll even see some mufflone, or wild boar. Over dinner our guide tells us about the Sardinian tradition of winemaking, which started before the Roman domination of the island—during the Nuraghic period—and has continued ever since. The Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, Tuscans, Genoese, Benedectine and Camaldolite monks, Spanish and Piemontese all have a place in the history. Satiated from a delicious dinner, we have time to relax on the terrace or swim in the pool under the starfilled night sky. Overnight: Oliena Meals: B, L, D

Day 7: Sardinia - Alghero

As if we are leaving behind a newly found family, we wave farewell to Signora Pasqua at our country inn, and make our way west to Alghero. We part company in the early afternoon at our preferred hotel here, or we are happy to bring you to the nearby airport. From Alghero there are several fine options for short connecting flights to Rome, Milan, London and Frankfurt. Meals: B