Southern Tuscany to Rome Walking Tour

Stretching our legs a bit more, we amble on a footpath through the surrounding olive groves and past the noted author's lovely home. Along the way, local friends invite us to dip some crusty bread into their amazing olive oil—still extracted on the same press that has created some of Europe's favorite oil since the 17th century. Later in the afternoon, we return to Cortona to relax in our villa-hotel, an experience in itself since the structure dates to the 8th century and the current owners have lovingly restored the original architectural features. Overnight: Cortona Meals: D

Our local guide will share it all with you on explorations that begin with a walk into the sloping, scallop-shaped Piazza del Campo. Palazzi, gothic towers, and churches line the undulating web of historic streets. Be prepared to have your breath taken away as they suddenly open wide to reveal the zebra-striped Duomo, earliest of the great Tuscan Gothic cathedrals. And you'll hear amazing stories about the annual Palio race, a fierce, centuries-old tradition that pits proud communities against one another. Midday, we lunch at one of our guide's favorite trattorias on specialties such as porcini mushrooms and pici, hand-rolled pasta created while we enjoy the local Sienese red wine. 

Later in the afternoon, we unwind in lovely Spello, our home at the foot of Monte Subasio for the next two nights. Spello's pink stone houses overlook terraces of olive trees on the Umbrian plain and are warmed by their southeastern exposure, perhaps one of the reasons its inhabitants are so cheerful. It's perfect for casual wandering—uncrowded by people, but overloaded with Roman monuments, medieval buildings, and Renaissance and Baroque paintings and architecture. Our hotel is located right in the historic center in a magnificently restored building which housed an important family from 1400 until the 1800's. No wonder we're always so happy to be here. As a prelude to dinner, our friend Fabrizio leads us down into his barrel-vaulted wine cellar—originally an old mill that dates to the 14th century—for a spirited tasting of the local wines. Overnight: Spello Meals: B, D

After an early lunch, we make our way to the hermitage where, according to religious tradition, Francis retired to preach to the birds. For a different perspective on this spectacular countryside, we return to Spello by foot, on the path pilgrims and nature-lovers have taken for hundreds of years. Wild horses roam the slopes that are sprinkled with wildflowers and the views are breathtaking. 

Back in our hotel, a restored former 15th century palazzo boasting 25-foot high ceilings and antique murals, we prepare for the gastronomic climax to a remarkable day. Dinner is in an award-winning restaurant (so popular with locals that visitors have trouble getting a table) and features inventive takes on Umbrian dishes scented perhaps by truffles and mountain herbs. Overnight: Spello Meals: B, D

Rested and refreshed, we swing into Deruta, one of Italy's premier centers of ceramic production. No tourist-trap shops for us. Instead, we've arranged for an artisan of our acquaintance to welcome us to her workshop. It is so interesting to learn about a craft that is emblematic not just of this region, but of the entire country. Though Rome is still days away, we have our first meeting with the Tiber River this afternoon as it leads us to Spoleto, our home for the next three nights. Overnight: Spoleto Meals: B, L

After a morning in the country, our afternoon is full of Orvieto. Once an important Etruscan settlement, Orvieto is renowned for its glittering Gothic cathedral, built over a period of 300 years and using the talents of scores of architects, mosaicists, sculptors and painters. Of course, you recognize the name from the luscious wines of the region. Crack open a bottle with dinner. Afterward, enjoy the mellow evening air on an evening stroll, properly called the passeggiata. Overnight: Spoleto Meals: B, D

After your market inspired picnic lunch, we’ll spend the balance of the afternoon exploring the historic city centre of Spoleto. The best way we know to view and appreciate Fra Filippo Lippi’s Renaissance frescoes in the duomo and the Roman remains in the square is in the company of our friend who is an accomplished art historian. What would be just a nice walk if you went on your own becomes a memorable glimpse into the past. As the sun sets tonight in Spoleto, we sip wine and revel in a delicioso farewell dinner in a restaurant overlooking the lake. Overnight: Spoleto Meals: B, D