Coastal Tuscany & Pisa Vacation

Day 1: Lucca

We meet in Lucca, widely regarded as one of the most beautiful medieval cities in Europe. You’ll get your first hint as you approach our lovely hotel, comprised of several buildings including a villa and a 14th century church. It’s definitely one of our favorite places, and we’ll show you why on our get acquainted walk. History is everywhere. It was here, for instance, that Caesar, Pompey and Crassus formed the triumvirate to rule Rome. And Lucca was also the first Tuscan town to accept Christianity. As the ultimate expression of a Renaissance city, Lucca has it all—a spectacular white duomo…a Roman amphitheater…and cobblestone lanes lined with fine shops. We’ll also stroll in the tree-lined park that sits comfortably on top of the broad city walls. On your own, you may want to shop a while or, if our timing is right, sit in on a concert in a deconsecrated church. However you pass your first Tuscan afternoon, we’ll all spend the evening together over a welcome dinner in one of the Lucca’s finest restaurants. Overnight: Lucca Meals: D

Day 2: Chianti

Here in the western reaches of Tuscany, the hills undulate toward the sea. They’re gentler than those inland and make for perfect walking. Fueled by an expansive breakfast, we’ll take our first walk that meanders through olive groves with an only-in-Tuscany horizon line sprinkled with hilltop villages. We wouldn’t miss stopping at the thousand-year-old church (where the angel was recently attributed to Leonardo da Vinci). A friend of ours is waiting at his farm to show us the frantoio (grinding stone) where the olives are crushed. An olive oil tasting segues naturally in to a light lunch on the grounds of the villa. 

Day 3: Lucca and San Gennaro

After a brief ride, we’ll be dropped at the perfect starting point for one of Italy’s most famous walks. The Viale is an avenue defined by long stretches of cypress trees. The poets have celebrated it (though you have to be up on Giosue Carducci to know that). We let the Viale draw us to Bolgheri. Time seems to have stopped here, so we don’t rush through our exploration, pausing to visit Gabriele, an artist who specializes in low-relief terracotta sculpture before we laze through lunch in the town center. 

Day 4: Giglio Island

If the air from the sea stimulates your appetite like it does ours, you’ll be well pleased with today’s breakfast. We’re just a short drive from the ferry that transports us to the Island of Giglio. You’ve seen it already from our hotel, now we’ll take a walk up to the old castle town at the top. Our guide Luciano always says that Giglio feels like Corsica to him with its low vegetation and an almost 360-degree view of the surrounding sea. The Etruscans, the Greeks, the Romans, the pirate Barbarossa and even the Turks made their marks here and the layers of history are very real. In old workshops, artisans keep up skills like basket making and we’ll have chances to visit some before lunch in a local trattoria. Later, we follow old mule tracks down through wild lavender and maritime pines to a crystal clear cove where you can swim if you like. After ferrying back to the mainland, we’ll take some time before dinner. But be sure to try the local seafood specialties in the charming nearby port of Santo Stefano. They’re a delicious departure from the more familiar Tuscan soups and meats we’ve enjoyed at earlier meals. Overnight: Argentario Meals: B

Day 5: Populania

The Etruscans were the original prehistoric civilizers of Italy and the fascinating remnants of their rule are the theme for today. For starters, we’ll follow a scenic path overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. Some parts of this route have been in use since ancient times, and they offer the chance to see cormorants and blue heron and perhaps the local roe deer. We’re headed for Populonia, the Etruscans’ only seaport. 

Day 6: Lajatico

Just as you think you have the feel of the Tuscan hills, things change a little today as we strike out on a walk near Lajatico. You’ll see more evidence of ancient farms; horses are more common here, and it’s not unusual to spot the butteri, Italian “cowboys.” After lunch, we’ll visit the Bocelli family’s vineyard for a tasting. That’s Bocelli as in world-famous tenor Andrea. The vineyard is run by his brother, Alberto, and sister-in-law, Cinzia, and they produce not just wine, but also honey and olive oil. 

Day 7: Pisa

It may come as a surprise, but our tranquil retreat for these last few days in the Tuscan countryside is really only a short drive from Pisa. We’ll make that jaunt this morning. Many of the Crusaders came here, which explains the Arabic themes in the intricate architecture of the Duomo and (could we avoid it even if we wanted to?) the tower. We’ve saved time to explore, before we part company with the option of traveling from the Pisa train station or airport. Meals: B