Spain: Basque Country

DAY 1 Meeting in Bilbao. Erreta Lanteno to Torre de Quejana;

Upon meeting your fellow travelers at the Hotel Hesperia Bilbao this morning and a short introduction, you depart for your first day in the Basque Country. Entering the lovely Ayala Valley, at the foothills of the impressive cliffs of the Sierra de Orduña, you arrive in the tiny town of Erreta Lanteno. Your morning walk begins on a shaded dirt road with a steady ascent (approximately two miles), taking you to the hidden farmlands of the valley.

As lunchtime approaches, you arrive at a beautifully renovated typical Basque stone farmhouse, surrounded by green pasturelands. You are welcomed by Josu, a veteran Country Walkers guide (recently turned mayor of the Ayala Valley), and his wife, Begonia, for a hearty country lunch of organic vegetables, local cheeses, chorizo, and freshly baked bread. The meal wouldn’t be complete without a first taste of txakoli, the refreshing sparkling white wine, for which the Basque Country is known.

After lunch, you descend quiet country roads and mule tracks en route to the medieval castle of the powerful landlord of this region, the Chancellor Lope de Ayala. After visiting the 14th-century Tower of Quejana, you are met by your coach for the 25-minute transfer to the walled medieval town of Orduña.

Arriving at the main town square, you are welcomed to your home for the next two nights―an 18th-century customs house that has been recently restored into a unique hotel featuring spa facilities. There is time to unpack and explore the neighborhood before gathering again for a welcome aperitif and presentation on Basque history and culture, followed by dinner at the hotel.

DAY 2 Nervión Canyon: Unza to Puerto de Orduña;

After a buffet breakfast you embark on a 30-minute drive to the rural village of Unza and the start of the day’s walk in the high plains of the Sierra de Orduña. Ascending grassy slopes and high pastureland dotted with grazing cows, horses, and long-haired sheep, you arrive at the spectacular Nervión Canyon, with its 2,000-foot vertical drop. (While the drop-off can be vertiginous, those who suffer from vertigo can stay at a safe distance from the edge). Walking along the rim, you are treated to breathtaking views of the canyon’s dramatic cliffs and the sweeping valley below. Soaring overhead are Griffon vultures, the largest birds in Europe. Nervión Canyon boasts the highest concentration of this species who favor the high pasturelands in search of prey. Don’t forget your binoculars for an unforgettable flying show!

A shady grove provides the perfect setting for a fresh picnic lunch prepared by your guides―perhaps salad with goat cheese, chorizo, tuna, ham, melon, and peppers, finished off with chocolate and almonds for dessert. Following lunch, your walk continues along the canyon rim into the afternoon. Reaching the outskirts of Puerto de Orduña, you are met by your driver for the 30-minute return drive to your hotel in Orduña.

Reuniting in the evening for dinner at the hotel, the contemporary cuisine features fresh local products, especially mushrooms and game in season.

DAY 3 Salinas de Añana visit; 1 mile, easy. The Salt Trail: Salinas de Añana to Fontecha;

This morning, a 40-minute drive over the Sierras brings you to Salinas de Añana, an ancient town linked to the history of salt as early as the year 822 when its saline springs were first documented. Arriving at the town’s salt pans, you are met by a local guide who provides an overview of the traditional salt extraction process and the important role this precious commodity played in the history of the town and entire Basque region. Extracted from the remains of an oceanic deposit of salt, the Salinas de Añana salt is ultrapure and highly prized by top chefs. Despite a decline in business due to the competition of more affordable international brands, Salinas de Añana has carved out a niche for itself as a specialty product and is hoping to have the valley appointed a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Setting off on foot from the salt valley, you follow the old Salt Trail used by hundreds of mule drivers during the Middle Ages. Passing through Mediterranean forest and cultivated rolling fields―home to many migratory birds flying from Europe to Africa―you skirt Arreo Lake, the deepest water body on evaporite rocks in the Iberian Peninsula, before reaching the little town of Fontecha. The town is watched over by two medieval towers, built by two rival families made rich and powerful by the salt trade. Stopping at a terraza, the outdoor seating of a local café, your guides unpack a late lunch and order a round of well-deserved cold drinks.

This afternoon, a 50-minute drive delivers you to the southernmost part of the Basque Country: La Rioja region, Spain’s most renowned wine-producing region. You arrive at your home for the next two nights, a charming 18th-century baroque house, on a sleepy village square in the heart of Rioja Alavesa. There is time to relax and unpack before being treated to a special meal prepared and served by the innkeepers in your hotel’s exceptional restaurant.

DAY 4 La Rioja: Santa Maria de la Piscina to San Ginés, or Santa Maria de Toloño monastery;

Following a delicious breakfast of fresh yogurt, fruit, meats and cheeses, and croissants, you set off to explore the northern portion of La Rioja wine country. An easy-to-moderate walk option begins at the Romanesque chapel of Santa Maria de la Piscina, set amidst poppy fields, and takes you through world-renowned vineyards. Alternatively, you may opt for a more challenging option up and over the Sierra de Toloño to the ruins of Santa Maria de Toloño, a 9th-century monastery with spectacular views of the wine country.

This route begins high in the Sierra at the 3,051-foot Rivas de Tereso pass and, after gently ascending a forested dirt road, continues along an open gravel trail bordered by high pastures and grazing cows. Reentering the forest, the walk continues uphill over steep switchbacks and mountain trails before reaching the ruins of the massive rocky formation known as Santa Maria de Toloño. Rewarded with spectacular views over the lush farmland and vineyards of the Ebro River Valley, you depart the monastery and begin a steep descent towards the town of San Ginés.

All walkers reunite at a shaded picnic area on the outskirts of town where your guides lay out another delicious picnic lunch. Afterwards, you may opt to join your guides for an additional 1½-mile walk to town before returning to your hotel by mid-afternoon.

This evening, a 20-minute drive brings you to the medieval hilltop town of Laguardia. Considered the capital of the Rioja Alavesa, this fortified town is home to more than 300 cellars used for making and storing wine beneath its streets. Winding through its narrow lanes you arrive at the historical Bodega El Fabulista and are welcomed to their gothic underground wine cellars for a unique private wine tasting experience. Dinner is on your own this evening, letting you discover the delicious tables of the town.

DAY 5 Zumaia to Zarautz (including sections of the Camino de Santiago);

After breakfast, a scenic 1½-hour drive brings you to the Basque Country’s northeast coast along the Bay of Biscay. Reaching the seaside town of Zumaia, located in Gipuzkoa Province, where the Urola and Narrondo rivers convene, you set off for the day’s walk. Departing from the village harbor, a steep but short ascent takes you up and over the hills on a dirt road, affording spectacular views of the Bay of Biscay. This undulating trail with wide open views was first used by the pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela over 1,000 years ago. You cross white wine vineyards of txakoli and lush farmland, dotted with horses and sheep, before stopping at the perfect picnic spot―a thick grassy slope with sweeping views of the sea and to neighboring France. A tortilla española, or Spanish omelet made of potatoes and onions, may be served alongside a fresh tomato salad and crusty bread.

After lunch, you continue on a combination of mule tracks and cobblestone medieval roads and wind past lookouts of old Basque whalers. Your guides explain how this ancient practice played a major role in the region’s development. Arriving at the town of Zarautz―an ancient whaling settlement turned beautiful seaside resort―there is time to break for an ice cream at a seaside café.

A 30-minute transfer brings you to the day’s final destination of San Sebastian and your majestic old-world hotel overlooking the Playa de la Concha, a beautiful, wide, crescent-shaped beach. This evening you walk to dinner in the heart of the bustling Old Quarter, at an atmospheric restaurant dedicated to the Slow Food movement. With a mission that is in contrast to “fast food,” the Slow Food movement is dedicated to preserving and promoting agricultural and culinary traditions particular to a region.

DAY 6 The Cliff of the Basque Coast: Haizabia to Hondarribia;

To complete this diverse tour of the Basque Country, a 30-minute drive across the border into France brings you to the spectacular Cliffs of Sokoa, a world famous area known as “La Corniche de la Côte Basque,” the Basque coast’s winding oceanside drive. Following the cliffs’ edge, where gentle green slopes and apple orchards meet the rough Atlantic Ocean, you discover hidden islands and tiny bays, until you reach Hendaye Beach, the longest in the Basque region. You stroll along the shore, with its old casino and elegant villas facing the waves of the Cantabrian Sea, before embarking on a 15-minute ferry ride on the Bidasoa River, crossing the international border into Spain. You reach the charming fortified town of Hondarribia and, for a very authentic lunch, go bar hopping for pinxtos (Basque tapas) in the colorful taverns near the fishermen’s wharf. These delectable small plates are a social food, meant to be enjoyed with others, and are best when accompanied by some txakoli.

Later, you board the bus for a short 25-minute transfer to San Sebastian for a relaxing rest of the afternoon, discovering the wonders of this provincial capital with French flair. The city spreads over a bay with beautiful fine-sand beaches on one side, and the old fishing port of Parte Vieja on the other. With a population of approximately 200,000, San Sebastian offers a multitude of sightseeing opportunities, from the Romantic district to modernist houses. You may also peruse the many shops displaying Basque crafts.

Tonight a 10-minute drive brings you to the industrial port on the outskirts of San Sebastian, to a very Basque neighborhood where both the Basque language and the txakoli flows freely in the lively bars. Crossing the harbor of Pasai Donibane by private boat, you are welcomed to a final Basque culinary feast in a restaurant renowned for its delicious seafood and regional specialties and its incomparable location on the harbor. A toast precedes this final celebratory dinner—perhaps a sumptuous seafood paella, perfectly paired with the region’s white wine.

DAY 7 Farewell

Your tour in the Basque Country concludes after breakfast. You may choose to extend your stay in San Sebastian or Bilbao or arrange for taxi or bus service based on your return connections.