Spain: Granada to Seville

DAY 1 Alhambra guided visit; 3-4 hours, easy. Transfer to La Joya-Antequera

This morning you enter the extraordinary world of the Alhambra—a magnificent ensemble of palaces and fortresses that once housed the Moorish rulers of Granada. The tour of the Alhambra is led by a local expert guide and provides a detailed overview of this overwhelmingly beautiful site. The visit comprises all of the most fascinating monuments, including the Alcazaba (the oldest part of the fortress), as well as the exquisite Palacio de Generalife gardens. The sultans’ summer palace known as the Generalife, or “the architect’s gardens” if literally translated from Arabic, is the oldest example of Moorish gardens in Spain. Even if you explored the site on your own prior to the tour, you discover fascinating new facets of each of the ancient buildings and gardens, all the while relishing spectacular views over the rest of the city.

After lunch at a local restaurant, you set out for the village of La Joya, approximately two hours by coach. Your home for the next two nights is a stylish hotel located in a peaceful setting, perched on a hillside a mile away from the village. A welcome drink of jerez (sherry) or vino dulce de Málaga (sweet wine from Málaga) is served on the hotel terrace, with splendid views towards the Montes de Málaga and Mediterranean coast. This evening you savor a welcome feast prepared by chef Jesús Guerrero, who selects only the freshest local ingredients, some directly from the hotel’s small garden.

DAY 2 Hotel Fuente del Sol to Antequera; Torcal de Antequera

This morning you rise to a hearty breakfast before setting off for the day. The first walk departs directly from the hotel and takes you to the historic town of Antequera. The path passes isolated cortijos (traditional Andalucian farmhouses) as it skirts the Cerro del Águila (Eagle Hill). At the Cortijo del Robledillo (Oak Tree Farm), you continue on a cordel (a drover’s road) used by shepherds travelling with their flocks of sheep and goats since time immemorial. You follow the cordel to the pass at Escaruela, and enjoy views of the distinctive limestone massif landscape of the Torcal along the way. Once through the pass, you drop down steadily while building up an appetite for your picnic lunch. Your guides unpack an assortment of local delicacies and your morning efforts are fully rewarded with a varied feast.

A short bus ride after lunch takes you into the heart of the Torcal de Antequera, a maze of surreal karstic rock outcrops dating to the Jurassic period. The area supports a variety of orchids, wild roses, mountain goats, and griffon vultures. After an easy walk around the Torcal, during which you may spot some fossils, you transfer back to your hotel where you have time to relax with a glass of wine pool-side, or perhaps use the spa facilities, and fully embrace the peaceful setting. Dinner is on the premises, once again featuring the Mediterranean creations of the talented chef.

DAY 3 Montecorto to Grazalema; 9 miles, moderate

Following breakfast, you check out of the hotel and board the coach for a two-hour transfer to the village of Montecorto, where a walk to the mountain village of Grazalema begins. Initially climbing steadily away from Montecorto, the trail descends, then rises again to crest a ridge boasting spectacular views. You walk through undulating countryside of mixed farmland, hillside pastures, and open woodland, through the Guadalete valley, catching the occasional glimpse of Grazalema well before arrival. After another splendid al fresco lunch, you walk the remaining distance to your home for the next two nights in Grazalema, nestled on a hillside below the Gaidovar mountains. Grazalema is one of the typical “white towns of Andalusia,” characterized by their whitewashed walls and either red or brown tiled roofs. The town reached an economic height in the 17th century from a strong hand-weaving and, eventually, drapery industry, producing the famous shawls of Grazalema.

Your hotel, the Puerta de la Villa, is located in the heart of this traditional whitewashed village and surrounded by the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. Tonight’s meal features a bounty of the region—perhaps oven-roasted lamb or locally caught trout accompanied by the hotel’s home-grown vegetables.

DAY 4 Grazalema to Benamahoma; 8.5 miles

Two equally spectacular walks are available today depending on the time of year and the recent weather. Your route might take you to the village of Benamahoma—however, low rainfall sustained over several months make this environment vulnerable to forest fire and may not be accessible to walkers. The alternative walk follows a trail to the village of Benaocaz. The path from Grazalema to Benamahoma climbs steadily to a dramatic ridge at 4,000 feet in the Sierra de las Cumbres and then skirts the north face of the Sierra del Pinar (clad with the Spanish fir, a rare relic from the last ice age found in only three areas of Spain). Along the way you pick a spot to spread out a picnic lunch of local cheeses, meats, vegetables, fruits, and breads. The walk ends in the enchanting village of Benamahoma, where the streets are lined with orange trees exuding the scent of their blossoms for much of the year.

The alternative route goes from the village of Grazalema to the village of Benaocaz; a charming village situated in the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, this park is one of Spain’s most ecologically important areas and home to the griffon vulture, deer, roebuck, Egyptian mongoose, and even the imperial and royal eagles. The walk takes you through countryside with dramatic views and past the spectacular cleft known as the Salto del Cabrero (Goatherd’s Leap).

Following either option, and the short ride back to Grazalema, there is time to relax at your hotel or explore the quiet whitewashed streets and shops of this pretty hill town before dinner.

DAY 5 Grazalema to Montejaque; 10.5 miles, easy to moderate

Once again you depart from your hotel on foot. Today’s walk to the village of Montejaque first descends and then rises to the Puerto de los Alamillos (Poplar Pass). Once through the pass, you find yourself walking briefly through picture-perfect farmland unchanged over the centuries, before dropping again to follow the gentle meanders of the Campobuche or Gaduares stream through open cork oak forest. Today’s lunch is another wonderful trailside picnic featuring a delicious assortment of local specialties.

In the afternoon you transfer approximately a half hour to the town of Ronda, one of Andalusia’s most dramatically situated towns. Ronda is surrounded by mountains and perched on cliffs overlooking a spectacular river gorge. Your parador hotel boasts a unique location on the edge of this gorge, a setting that you will enjoy for the next two nights. There is time to take a short stroll before dinner in one of the nearby restaurants, also offering spectacular views of this dramatic scenery.

DAY 6 Ronda countryside; 5 miles, easy to moderate. Free afternoon in Ronda

Following the previous days’ invigorating hikes in open countryside, the next part of the tour offers a more relaxed pace and switches to highlighting the region’s historical and cultural gems. Today you step out of your hotel for an easy morning walk taking you to the outskirts of town and offering splendid views. The route loops back into the bustling town by midday and the rest of the day, including lunch and dinner, is yours to design. Your guides are available to assist you with suggestions based on your tastes and interests.

For example, you may choose to walk across the 18th century Puente Nuevo (new bridge), which spans the dramatic 350-foot-deep Guadalevin River Gorge known as El Tajo. The bridge takes you to the central Casco Antiguo (old quarter), packed with churches, palaces, and the remains of mosques and other reminders of Spain’s Moorish past. Retracing your steps across the bridge, there is the option of visiting the oldest bullring in Spain and its delightful museum. Ronda also offers a plethora of galleries and shops as an alternative to the historic sites. Finally, you might allow some time to relax poolside at your hotel, embracing Andalusia’s pleasant climate.

DAY 7 Seville city tour; 3-5 miles, easy

After a final breakfast in Ronda you depart for a two-hour transfer to Seville. Located on the banks of the Guadalquivir River, Seville is one of the most important historical and cultural cities in Europe. Your exploration of this fascinating city begins with a stroll through the narrow streets of the Barrio de Santa Cruz. This historic quarter with its beautiful houses, flowered balconies, richly decorated facades, and hidden patios is a treat to explore. Next you visit the Alcazar (royal palace)—founded in the 10th century by Abd Al Rahman III and converted most notably by Peter the Cruel for use as his palace. The fortress displays varied architectural styles from Islamic to Neoclassical and features multiple delightful gardens, fountains, and pavilions.

Seville also takes credit for the original tapas (small Spanish dishes and appetizers) and is home to thousands of tapas bars, where one can sample a wide variety of dishes including seafood, sausages, vegetables, cheese, olives, as well as wines.

Your sojourn in Andalusia culminates with a final evening in this seductive city where the legendary Don Juan began conquering hearts of women across Europe. You take in all that Seville has to offer, including sampling the array of tapas, trying una copa de manzanilla (a glass of dry sherry), and enjoying a local intimate flamenco performance. You retire to your elegant accommodation in a converted 18th-century palace with a grand inner patios (courtyard) and fine archways.

DAY 8 Farewell

The tour concludes after breakfast. You are free to depart at your leisure for your next destination, or continue your exploration of this fascinating city.