Costa Rica: Southern Rainforest & Coast

DAY 1 Los Quetzales National Park; 3-4 miles, Moderate (elevation of walk is 8,200 feet). Optional;

The tour begins this morning by heading south from San José on the Pan American Highway, until recent years, the only main road leading south from the capital. The Pan American Highway climbs into the Talamanca Mountain Range, which stretches nearly 200 miles between San José and Panama, and is also the day’s destination, site of Los Quetzales National Park and La Amistad National Park, which straddles the border of Costa Rica and Panama. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983 for its unique character and geography, the Talamanca range is the third most diverse biological hotspot in the world, providing a habitat for the interbreeding of both North American and South American species of flora and fauna. As you wind your way along the road, climbing Cerro de la Muerte (part of the Talamanca Mountain Range) from the north, you follow the Continental Divide, with alternating vistas from the Pacific to the Atlantic coasts.

This two-hour drive takes you into the heart of rural Costa Rica, unchanged since the road was built in the 1950s. Turning off onto a side road, you arrive at the home of Eladio and Maria Salazar. A park volunteer, born and raised with this high montane cloudforest as his back yard, Eladio accompanies you on the day’s walk, but first, he and his lovely wife welcome you into their home for a typical tico (Costa Rican) breakfast—complete with rice and beans, farm fresh eggs and cheeses, and local coffee. Following this late breakfast you set off with Eladio into Los Quetzales National Park. Extending over 12,000 acres, this national park is Costa Rica’s newest and protects significant portions of the Savegre River watershed, which you follow from the mountains to the coast on this tour. Los Quetzales is aptly named for the stunning resplendent quetzal, frequently sighted in the park. In the heart of the Talamanca Mountain Range, with the highest peak at 11,000 feet above sea level, the park comprises tropical oak cloudforest and sub-alpine vegetation. Here many different members of the plant community are familiar because of their close affinities with temperate zone relatives.

The first walk takes place in the Quetzales Paradise farm owned by the Serrano family and also part of the Quetzales National Park—one of the few sites awarded by the Costa Rican Government with the Blue Flag for its conservation efforts in watershed protection. You walk amid a forest of tall oak trees, centenary mountain cypress, and magnolias, among many others, their branches and tree trunks hung with hundreds of epiphytes. This magical landscape is in a constant mist that covers the canopy almost year round, creating the unique cloudforest habitat, with famous resident birds like the elusive resplendent quetzal, the beautiful but noisy emerald toucanet, and the elegant violet sabrewing. Animals occasionally seen in the area are two-toed sloths, spider monkeys, mountain rabbits, kinkajous, coatis, spiny green lizards, and gray foxes. It is important to note that this first walk of the week takes place at an elevation of 8,200 feet and weather can be variable—please be prepared with layers.

You arrive at the family-owned lodge that is your home for two nights, and whose founders were the first pioneers to arrive and establish a farm in this scenic valley in 1954. In addition to welcoming guests to their lodge and extensive grounds, they also grow apples, plums, and peaches, all served at the lodge’s restaurant. The proud recipient of “four leaves” (out of five) from the Costa Rica Tourism Institute and their Certification in Sustainable Tourism Program, their hard work and efforts are evident, and by staying here you support their good work. The best part—you are welcomed in absolute quality and comfort in your lodging and dining!

Later in the afternoon you may join your guide on foot from the hotel for an easy walk along the Savegre River, named the cleanest river in Central America, to a refreshing waterfall, or you may wish to stroll the grounds on your own, admiring the beautiful gardens and colorful hummingbirds flitting about, such as the volcano, fiery-throated, or magnificent hummingbirds. You also have the options to go horseback riding or revitalize with a spa treatment at the new facility along the Savegre River (the second two options are at your own cost). You gather for dinner this evening at the lodge’s Las Bromelias Restaurant, where you may try freshly caught trout from the river, cooked to perfection.

DAY 2 Los Robles and Cascada trails, 6 miles, moderate with challenging sections; elevation gain an

Today you explore the unique ecosystem of the region. More than 30 miles of trails lead into the lodge’s private cloudforest reserve. Located in the environs of the Cerro de la Muerte in the Talamanca Range, 75% of its 1,000-acre property is protected. At an elevation between 7,220 and 8,500 feet above sea level, 80% of the reserve is virgin forest, with the newer growth of the remainder reforested with native species, especially wild avocado. Known worldwide for its diversity of plant life, including ancient oaks, wild avocado, orchids, and bromeliads, the reserve is a living research laboratory for institutions such as The Institute of Systematic Botany (New York) and The Field Museum of Natural History (Chicago), both of which study mushrooms endemic to the area. Two German universities in conjunction with the University of Costa Rica and the Costa Rican National Institute of Biodiversity carry out research on epiphytes and their influence on the hydrogen cycle in the region. The reserve’s animal life includes more than 170 species of birds, as well as numerous mammals, amphibians, reptiles, and insects.

The walking route explores the higher part of the lodge’s property—a pristine primary oak forest. The undulating trail, with short but steep ascents and descents, has several small stream crossings, and in places can be muddy with some roots and rocks. One of Costa Rica’s most beautiful and unique forests, you may spot an astounding variety of birds. Species range from those known in North America such as the redtailed hawk and hairy woodpecker to those of Central America such as the resplendent quetzal, sulphur-winged parakeet, black guan, collared trogon, flame-colored and spangled-cheeked tanagers, to name only a few. Tonight you enjoy an exceptional in-home experience. You are welcomed to the home of the Chacon family for a dinner of watercress soup, fresh trout, and plenty of lively conversation.

DAY 3 Siberia de Pérez Zeledón, 3½ miles, moderate (elevation of walk 9,840 feet). Transfer to Domi

For early risers, a short optional bird-watching walk around the gardens of the lodge is a tranquil start to the day. After an ample buffet breakfast, you depart for the 3-hour drive to the Pacific Coast, which is broken up with one stop. The drive follows the Pan-American Highway to the small community of Siberia de Pérez Zeledón. This small village of only 100 inhabitants makes a living on blackberries and dairy farming. Your walk today leads down a traditional ox cart road through paramo and native oak forest. The destination is the home of Martin Salazar, where you are welcomed to a typical lunch of mushroom soup accompanied by rice and beans and finished off with a glass of blackberry wine—and blackberry pie! Continuing the journey, the road takes you along the foothills of Talamanca, through small Costa Rican villages mainly supported by coffee and dairy farming.

The journey ends in the south Pacific region of Playa Ballena, at Uvita and Dominical beach, in walking distance to the Ballena Marine National Park—Latin America’s first and Costa Rica’s only marine national park. In the early evening, you arrive at your welcoming hotel, overlooking Costa Rica’s southern Pacific coast. Perched between the beach and rainforest-covered mountains in a private nature reserve of over 600 acres, one of its many amenities are the spectacular sunsets. Cristal Ballena is dedicated to marine and terrestrial conservation and environmental education. A recipient of 5 out of 5 leaves for sustainable tourism, this lodge offers sustainable comforts without sacrificing quality. After settling into your room, you gather at the open air restaurant for a fine dinner perhaps of fresh ocean fish.

DAY 4 Campesinos Reserve 7 miles, moderate.

After awakening to a breakfast spread of homemade breads, pastries, yogurts, or eggs to order, today is designated your “tico” day, delving into true Costa Rican culture. The destination is the Campesinos Reserve located on a beautiful mountain range between the Naranjo and Savegre rivers’ watersheds. A one-hour drive takes you to the town of Santo Domingo, where a short walk joins the Savegre River. With the assistance of your local guides, you cross the river using the traditional “andarivel,” a metal tram on hand-pulled ropes. On the other side of the river, a steady ascent brings you to the Campesinos Reserve. With more than 80 acres of primary and secondary forest, the reserve offers an extensive network of trails, which in some places may have some rocks and roots, and in others, are smoother and wider. Campesinos is also a cooperative of the local farming community of Quebrada Arroyo and is managed by Don Miguel Mora, his brother Visaí, and his wife Doña Juanita, and is a wonderful example of rural tourism, in which both visitors and local farmers benefit. Along today’s route you may stop for a swim in a refreshing natural pool beneath a waterfall. The walk continues to a suspension bridge over a deep river gorge (crossing the bridge is optional). In the lowlands, birdlife includes toucans, parrots, and tanagers. After lunch, the trail continues along this rural path for 5 miles to the small town of Londres, where your driver is waiting to bring you back to Uvita.

Upon return to the hotel, there is time to relax or perhaps refresh with a swim before meeting for a sunset drink to toast your perfectly Costa Rican day. Dinner this evening is at a lively coastal restaurant in town.

DAY 5 Transfer to Corcovado National Park; 2-4 miles, easy to moderate, with moderate sections

This morning you checkout and depart for the Corcovado National Park, located on the Osa Peninsula, jutting into the Pacific in southwestern Costa Rica. The park contains the last remaining Pacific lowland rainforest of sustainable size in Central America, Corcovado is the “Crown Jewel” of Costa Rica’s world-renowned national park system, described by National Geographic as “the most biologically intense place on earth.” And your lodge for three nights is an environmentally sensitive oasis, the lodging closest to the park, which can only be reached by boat. Following breakfast this morning you depart for Palmar Sur to board a boat for the Osa Peninsula. You make a stop en route at the newly established Finca 6, the Stones Spheres Park, owned by the National Museum of Costa Rica and managed by local leaders from Plantain Fields Cooperatives. A short walk takes you to these magnificent and mysterious spheres, some constructed more than 1,000 year ago by the local natives. Soon after, you embark on a boat in the Sierpe River for the two-hour ride to one of the world’s most famous neotropical parks. The Sierpe River leads directly to the open waters of the Pacific, and here, where the river meets the ocean, the waters can be turbulent. Once on the ocean, the boat skirts the coastline to Drake Bay, and finally on to the private landing of Casa Corcovado on the border of the Corcovado National Park. Keep on the lookout for the occasional humpback whale and dolphins; Costa Rican waters are visited by humpbacks from the northern and southern Pacific oceans!

The boat ride is a dramatic approach to the lodge, and you might even get wet getting on and off because the boat pulls up directly onto the beach. We recommend wearing water shoes on this day. The lovely lodge is tucked on the coast in the primary rainforest of a 170-acre private reserve bordering Corcovado National Park, and provides the ideal base for an in-depth rainforest experience. Following an introductory meeting and lunch, you settle in to individually appointed bungalows. The jungle lodge has earned the highest recognition in Costa Rica, the coveted “five leaves” for sustainable tourism, awarded for the hotel’s commitment to the environment and local communities. This afternoon you begin your rainforest exploration on one of trails through the preserve, through the lush and unique lowland rainforest of Corcovado. Because it is rainforest, the walking terrain has roots in many places and can often be muddy.

After a welcome drink at the sunset bar and dinner at the lodge’s dining room, you fall asleep to the sounds of the rainforest.

DAY 6 Caño Island Biological Reserve; snorkeling; Archaeological site and viewpoint; 2-3 miles, eas

After breakfast at the lodge, you again board a boat for the half-hour trip to Caño Island, which can be accompanied by playful dolphins swimming alongside. The island’s surrounding waters offer some of the finest snorkeling in Costa Rica—within 50 feet of the beach a wide variety of brilliantly colored tropical fish and coral species make their home in the island’s reef. Not only do the waters surrounding Caño Island contain some of the most abundant and varied marine life in the world, but the island also possesses several pre-Colombian archaeological artifacts. These small sites can be visited on your walk through the lush tropical vegetation of the island. The perfectly spherical stones are believed to have once marked an offshore burial ground and ceremonial site.

If you do not wish to partake in the full-day trip to Caño Island, options are available for guests who prefer to spend the day on a longer walk or by enjoying grounds of the property, the pools, or the new spa featuring local treatments (at your own expense).

Whichever option you have chosen, you gather for dinner for a feast of local specialties, which may feature the catch of the day prepared in classic Casa Corcovado style.

DAY 7 Casa Corcovado - San Pedrillo ranger station; 5-7 miles, easy to moderate

The cry of howler monkeys welcomes the morning in this nature lover’s paradise. You begin with an optional early morning bird watch over a cup of delicious Costa Rican coffee. Several species, including the scarlet macaw, white hawk, short-billed pigeon, and white-tipped sicklebill are among the birds that may visit the lodge this morning. After a hearty breakfast you begin a walk through a lush primary rainforest, always on the lookout for the abundant bird and animal life. The park is home to four species of Costa Rican monkeys: howler, spider, white-faced, and squirrel monkeys, which may be perched in the canopy above. The land where Corcovado National Park is situated was once an island that millions of years ago drifted to the mainland. With this unique geography, in addition to hundreds of species of animals, plants and birds, it is also one of the last places for jaguars, tapirs, and white-lipped peccaries in Central America.

From the lodge you descend into the forest, where, if you listen carefully, you may hear more of the raucous howler monkeys. Later, after crossing a pristine mountain stream, the trail leads through the dense rainforest and past unspoiled waterfalls. Reinvigorated, you continue the walk over some rougher forest trails to one of the few ranger stations in the national park. Here, you enjoy a picnic lunch before the return walk to the lodge. If the ocean tides are right, much of the return walk can follow along the beach where several species of marine birds can be seen. Back at the lodge, you savor your final celebratory evening in the rainforest, accompanied by a beautiful sunset, tropical drinks, and the ever-present howler monkeys in the distance.

DAY 8 Departure

The departure journey begins with a 30-minute boat ride back to Drake, where a private bus is waiting for the 20-minute drive to the local airstrip, in turn followed by the 45-minute flight to San José. Please note luggage restrictions outlined in the packing list. Your flight path leads you along the Savegre watershed and over the mountain range, allowing a unique vantage point to the terrain explored on tour. A waiting van takes you to San José’s International Airport to check in 3 hours before your scheduled flight.