France: Provence

Day 1: Châteauneuf-du-Pape loop walk; Domaine visit and wine tasting

Your walking exploration of Provence begins in Avignon. Shortly after meeting your guide(s), you set off for the nearby town of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, source of the renowned wine of the same name. Literally translating as the “new castle of the pope,” this was to be the site of the pope’s summer retreat when the seat of the papacy was moved to Avignon from Rome in the 14th century. From the hilltop town, views extend over thousands of acres of vines, originally brought here during the papal period, as well as over the Rhône valley, Avignon, and the Mont Ventoux, providing an excellent visual introduction to the week’s itinerary. Your walk is on undulating back roads used only by the locals to work the surrounding vineyards and trails linking two estates, each with a different character.

Later this afternoon, you make your way to one of the 55 producers of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, where you stop for a tour to learn more about its cultivation and classification. You finally arrive in the medieval town of Mazan, your home for the next three nights. A welcome apéritif awaits on the outdoor terrace, perhaps a chilled pastis, the anise-flavored drink of the South of France, accompanied by locally grown olives. Dinner is a medley of Provençal cuisine, flavored by a true Mediterranean blend of olive oil, herbes de Provence, and tomatoes.

Day 2: Vaison-la-Romaine market. Séguret loop

This morning you transfer to Vaison-la-Romaine. Visit the old town which has picturesque narrow cobbled streets and beautifully preserved medieval stone houses. Though the Wars of Religion ravaged other nearby towns, luckily Vaison was spared. If you wish your guide can take you up to the ruins of the 12th century castle from where there are breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. Vaison is also known for its plethora of outdoor markets set up in the small squares throughout the town. They offer the fresh bounty of the nearby farms and hillsides, seasonal fruits and vegetables, as well as local specialties such as truffles, lavender honey, and olive tapenades. Here there is time for you to explore on your own and choose local delicacies for your independent picnic lunch—perhaps a bit of Picodon goat cheese and a fragrant olive “fougasse,” a flat loaf similar to foccaccia. You will eat your picnic lunch during this afternoon’s walk.

Late morning, your marketing complete, a short drive takes you to the start of the afternoon’s walk in the town of Séguret. Another medieval gem, Séguret is synonymous with the red wine grown in the shadow of the low chain of mountains known as the Dentelles de Montmirail, named for their lace-like profile. Among its yellow stone buildings is the medieval castle and several ancient gates. The walk climbs through the hillside vineyards and Aleppo pines, opening onto dramatic views, and descends on equally rugged trails, back into the valley.

Back in your hometown for the night, you may sip an apéritif poolside, before dinner on your own.

Day 3: Château du Barroux loop walk

Fortified with excellent coffee and buttery croissants with jams, you begin the morning’s outing with a drive to the town of Le Barroux. The walk starts at the fortified castle that dominates the town, offering splendid views of the surrounding plains and the Mont Ventoux. You follow a rocky path up and down vineyards and pine forest before reaching the charming hamlet of La Roque-Alric, with a population of only a few dozen inhabitants. Steep narrow lanes lead to the church and the highest point of the peaceful village, which feels almost like a private estate.

In the shade of a big tree enjoy a picnic which features mixed salads with ripe vegetables, crusty bread, creamy cheeses, and cold cuts. It is here that a very special activity takes place. A wine specialist joins you and guides you through a wine tasting. The aim of the encounter is to discover wines and understand some of the reasons why each wine tastes different by following the life of each wine from the vineyard to the bottle. Olivier (the wine expert) explains the exclusive concept of “terroir” and demonstrates, in a fun and accessible way, how different terroir, grape varieties, vine-growing and winemaking methods determine the characteristics and quality of the wines that you taste. After this very special experience you finally loop back to the village of Le Barroux.

This evening dinner may feature delicately prepared fish or seafood, followed by lamb flavored with the same herbs that dotted the path of today’s walk.

Day 4: Transfer to the Luberon region. Abbaye de Sénanque to Gordes;

Today, you move south to the Luberon region of Provence. The landscape is comprised of the Petit Luberon and Grand Luberon mountain ranges and ridge-top medieval villages contrasting with open plains, creating a mosaic of subtle shades of earth and stone, cultivated fields, orchards, and open meadows. The day’s walk follows a path to the Abbaye de Sénanque, a 12th-century Cistercian abbey situated in the Sénanque Valley. A small community of Cistercian monks continues to live and work in this tranquil place. There will not be time to go inside for a visit, however in this very picturesque setting amid oak groves and lavender fields, enjoy a picnic lunch.

After lunch continue on to the village of Gordes, listed as one of the “Plus Beaux Villages de France” (“The Most Beautiful Villages in France”). There are 152 such villages in France, chosen for their beauty, authenticity, and ambiance. Here as the day unfolds there is time to explore Gordes, which is perched on a rocky spur. It has always been a strategic military site and the current castle, Renaissance in style, dates from the 15th century. The adjoining church was first built in the 12th century and later restored in the 18th century. During the Wars of Religion, Gordes successfully withstood a siege by the Baron des Adrets and was a centre of leather, wool, and silk industries in the 17th and 18th centuries, including weaving, carding and tanning. In 1887, part of the village was destroyed by an earthquake, which tended to hasten the already declining local industries.

The final destination of the day is Maubec, the location of your welcoming inn for the next three nights. This authentic bastide is surrounded by five acres of ancient oaks and scented pines, proving a perfect retreat on a hot summer day. The owner, Viviane, has taken great care in decorating each unique room to immediately make you feel at home. You may choose to unwind in the garden before moving on to a dinner of regional fare served either in the hotel’s courtyard, or in the cozy dining room.

Day 5: Lacoste to Bonnieux; 3.5 miles, easy to moderate

This morning begins with a short drive to Lacoste, one of the classic Luberon villages. For a short distance, you wander under white stone arches, along cobbled lanes, past art galleries, and continue along Lacoste’s ancient walls. The rest of the trail winds through a combination of cultivated and wild landscapes. Continuing on past orchards and “bories,” traditional stone farmer’s huts, the trail culminates at the county seat of Bonnieux, perched high on a hill. With archaeological evidence from as early as the Bronze Age, the first formal settlement was established by the Romans in the 1st century AD. In the Middle Ages, Bonnieux was raised to higher ground for defensive purposes, and ramparts and superb residences remain, testament to its strategic position in the region. You climb its labyrinth of alleyways and shaded lanes, overlooked by the combination Romanesque and Gothic “Église Haute,” or High Church. Today you may enjoy an independent lunch in one of the local restaurants. Sit on a terrace that has spectacular views over the valley. Alternately, time-permitting, there may be time to visit the farmer’s market to select your own local produce for a picnic lunch.

This evening offers a fun and casual opportunity to learn more about the delectable cuisine Provence is so well known for. Your chef and host may even invite you to participate in the preparation of some local favorites.

Day 6: Sivergues loop; 5 miles, easy to moderate, 790-ft elevation gain and loss

After a leisurely breakfast, you transfer to what locals refer to as the “village at the end of the world.” Sivergues, a tiny isolated village, once provided refuge to Protestants fleeing persecution. You pass its lovely 16th-century Romanesque chapel before beginning a panoramic walk that offers insight into the history of this region. The fertile Aiguebrun Valley is a canyon that lies below a dramatic limestone cliff. Numerous relics of prehistoric life have been found in this valley, and in early Christian times, Anchorite monks sought shelter in tiny caves carved into the vertical cliff face. This area’s naturally defensive position has been occupied throughout the ages by Ligurians, Romans, Catholics, and Protestants. You stop for lunch at a scenic location on the riverbank. Later this afternoon you explore the Fort de Buoux, an outstanding example of medieval military architecture, also classified as a Historical Monument.

Your farewell dinner takes place on the hotel premises. Your small inn’s dining room is reserved only for its guests, so once again you enjoy your hosts’ full attention and care. You toast your new friends with a glass of local wine and celebrate the bounty of the region one last time in this wonderfully unique setting. Tonight’s menu varies based on the market’s offerings as the chef selects only the freshest ingredients. Regardless of the season, you are sure to top your meal with a taste of delicious local cheese or dessert made with sun-drenched fruit.

Day 7: Farewell

After a leisurely breakfast the trip comes to a close with a one-hour drive to Avignon, where you can make connections for further explorations in Provence or travel to other destinations.