Medieval France: The Lot Valley

Day 1: Rodez / Conques

We meet in the medieval town of Rodez this morning (please arrive dressed for hiking!). Our Arrival & Departure Logistics memo, sent with your confirmation packet, has detailed information. We begin by exploring the small villages north of Rodez, walking from the hamlet of Saint-Austremoine, located among the vineyards, to Salles-La-Source, a medieval village perched on a cliff that features a magnificent waterfall surging from an underground river. After lunch, we enjoy a hike and a visit to an off-the-beaten-path winery in the area of Marcillac, a red sandstone village nestled among one of the oldest vineyards of France. The prized red and rosé wines of Marcillac are 90 percent from the mansois (or fer servadou) grape. Our hotel is the small and charming Moulin de Cambelong, a restored 18th century water mill on the banks of the Dourdou River at the foot of the spectacular stone-built village of Conques. We enjoy a welcome dinner at the Moulin de Cambelong’s Michelin-starred restaurant, whose chef, Hervé Busset, is also the owner of the hotel. Overnight in Conques...LD Total hiking distance: 3 miles

Day 2: Conques / The Way of St. James

Heading above beautiful Conques and the tiny hamlet of Montignac, we follow a pastoral path through villages and verdant fields to a stunning viewpoint overlooking the dramatically perched medieval village of Conques. The town grew around an abbey initiated in the 8th century when Dado, a local hermit, founded a small monastic community. The abbey, a spectacular example of Romanesque architecture, and its relics of St. Foy, a 4th century girl-saint, became a major stopover for the pilgrims hiking the trail known as el camino de santiago (The Way of St. James) to the holy city of Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Conques continues to attract pilgrims today, and the abbey church and pilgrims’ bridge are World Heritage Sites. After lunch, we enjoy a guided tour of sacred Conques and learn about the iconography of the beautifully cut stone sculptures of the Church of St. Foy. We also view the abbey’s treasures, a collection of exquisite reliquaries dating from the 9th century, including the intriguing gold reliquary statue of St. Foy, encrusted with jewels and cameos. Later we enjoy a stroll in the lovely streets of Conques before returning to our hotel for dinner. Overnight at Moulin de Cambelong in Conques...BLD Approximate hiking distance: 7.5 miles of gentle hiking along country roads, ascending about 1,000 feet up through a forest, then mostly downhill

Day 3: Conques

A lovely country drive of about an hour brings us to medieval Bessuejouls, where we visit its Romanesque church then hike to medieval Estaing following the pilgrim path through picturesque countryside. Estaing, listed as one of les plus beaux villages de France (the most beautiful villages of France), is set at the mouth of the Lot River Gorge and has fine medieval and renaissance houses as well a handsome stone bridge. After lunch in the beautiful village of Estaing, we visit its 15th century chateau belonging to the noble family of Valery Giscard d’Estaing, former president of the French Republic. We head back Conques following a scenic route along the Lot River. Overnight at Moulin de Cambelong in Conques...BLD Approximate hiking distance: 7 miles

Day 4: Figeac / Célé Valley / Rocamadour

We depart Conques for a very scenic morning drive along the meandering Lot River to the charming medieval town of Figeac. Lying along the north bank of the Célé River, Figeac has maintained its beautiful medieval architecture and maze of twisting, ancient alleys. We enjoy a guided visit to this beautiful town with an emphasis on medieval architecture. Figeac was also the home of the scholar and Egyptologist Jean François Champollion, who deciphered the Rosetta Stone. In town, we’ll see hieroglyphs carved on the Place des Ecritures and other Egyptian signs and symbols. From Figeac, we head for the timeless Célé River, which has carved a deep valley flanked by vividly colored cliffs with villages clinging to the slopes. We have lunch in the priory of the old abbey of Espagnac Sainte Eulalie, a small village watched over by an unusual clock tower. More than 100 nuns once resided in the convent and it adds a very special charm to the village. Our lunch stop here also gives us a chance to taste the products of local farms. After lunch, we enjoy a hike along the Célé River. Overnight at Les Vielles Tour, an 18th century chateau-turned-hotel near Rocamadour....BLD Approximate hiking distance: 5 miles

Day 5: Alzou Gorge / Rocamadour

After breakfast, we drive to Gramat and begin our hike from the hamlet of Lauzou, following a trail to Rocamadour that is part of the ancient pilgrim trail called the camino de Santiago. Our hike is a dramatic one, bringing us along the steep gorge carved by the Alzou River, with views of the ruins of 13th century mills, and a spectacular arrival in tiny Rocamadour, one of the most picturesque perched villages in France. After lunch, we enjoy an exploration of this remarkable town, a pilgrimage destination since 1166, when the body of an early Christian hermit, St. Amadour, was discovered here in a miraculous state of preservation. Many miracles have been credited to this town, and St. Amadour’s tomb rests in the Basilica of St. Sauveur, adjacent to which is a 12th century chapel with a wooden Black Madonna. In the afternoon, we have the option to return on foot to the hotel...BLD Approximate hiking distance to Rocamadour: 7 miles Optional hike in the afternoon: 3.5 miles

Day 6: Pech Merle Cave / Lot River Hike / St. Cirq Lapopie / Château de Mercues

The mysterious prehistoric painted cave of Pech Merle was discovered in 1922 by two teenagers who scrambled through a 400-foot passage to find a magnificent cavern decorated with prehistoric drawings dating back to the Solutrean and Magdalenian period (25,000 BC). Mammoths, bison, and horses gallop on the cave walls of this sanctuary of art, one of only two original caves from the Magdalenian period to remain open to the public. After exploring the numerous galleries of Pech Merle and its beautiful limestone formations, we hike down to the village of Cabrerets for a delicious lunch. Afterwards, we cross the Lot on a narrow bridge and continue along the south bank, where the trail is a tow-path carved from the overhanging rock, recalling the days when river transport was the life-blood of the Lot Valley. In this section of the river, barges loaded with salt, dried fish, spices, or gypsum could not be towed by horse teams but only by crews of strong men. We arrive at the foot of the village of St. Cirq Lapopie and finish our hike with a short ascent to its cobbled streets and terraced gardens. Cirq Lapopie is one of the most beautiful towns in the Lot region. Many Post- Impressionist and Surrealist poets and artists settled in the narrow, tile-roofed houses of the town, including André Breton, the surrealist poet who described the village as “like an impossible rose in the night.” We drive to Chateau Mercues. Our accommodation for the next three nights is the Château de Mercuès near Cahors, a majestic 13th century château in a beautiful setting overlooking the Lot River and the surrounding vineyards. Once the property of the count-bishops of Cahors, the renovated chateau has breathtaking views, a large swimming pool, lovely grounds, a wine cellar, and a Michelin-starred restaurant...BLD Approximate hiking distance: 7 miles of easy hiking

Day 7: Calvignac / Château de Cenevieres

Our morning hike brings us along the banks of the river and up to the rock-perched village of Calvignac. We explore the sleepy streets and savor the views of the gentle valley before continuing on a peaceful trail framed by boxwood and oak trees to the top of a plateau for grand views of the Lot Valley. We descend gradually to the 13th century Château de Cenevieres for a picnic lunch. The Château de Cenevieres has a rich and colorful history, and once belonged to King Pepin le Bref, Charlemagne’s father. The lord of the château welcomes us for a tour of his noble family home, a unique opportunity to hear the stories behind this historic residence. Dinner is on your own in Cahors, and the Trip Leader will be happy to make recommendations of local cafes and restaurants. Overnight at the Château de Mercuès...BL Approximate hiking distance: 7 miles, up and down hiking

Day 8: Cahors / Wine Country

We head toward the lively medieval town of Cahors, entering on foot over the famous medieval Pont Valentre spanning the Lot River. After exploring Cahors on a walking tour, we enjoy the lively outdoor market that takes place every Saturday in front of the cathedral. It is one of the most genuine of southwest France, an event not to be missed, with displays of fresh fruits and vegetables, and animated scenes of daily life including berettopped old men and housewives clutching chickens by their legs. In May, bouquets of tulips and ripe red strawberries are bright spots of color, while in October, mushrooms, pâte, and delectable foie gras are for sale. Time permitting, we can hike around Château de Mercuès. Lunch is on your own. The Cahors region is the oldest wine-producing region of France, dating to Roman times, and Cahors wine is a deep red made from malbec, merlot, and jurancon grapes grown in ruddy soil scattered with limestone pebbles. The Château de Mercuès produces an excellent wine, and tonight we have a wonderful opportunity to enjoy wine tasting in the large vaulted cellar hidden below the chateau. We gather for our farewell dinner in the château...BD Approximate hiking distance: 3 miles (optional)

Day 9: Depart

After breakfast, transfer to the Toulouse Airport (2-hour drive) for those departing on flights to Paris...B