Brittany & Normandy Biking: Premiere Inns

Meet your Backroads Trip Leaders (the folks wearing Backroads T-shirts) at 11:15 a.m. at the Caen train station. Please arrive wearing your biking clothes or carrying them in a small separate daypack, and have your rain gear handy.

Shuttle to Balleroy: 30 Minutes

Château de Balleroy Route: 18 Miles (300’ elevation gain)

After meeting we shuttle to the town of Balleroy and past the beautiful Château de Balleroy, acquired by media mogul Malcolm Forbes in 1970 and now owned by his son. A light garden lunch awaits at the nearby 17th-century Manoir de la Drôme, where we get better acquainted and prepare for today’s ride. After your Trip Leaders fit your bike and give a brief talk on biking techniques and safety, set out through rolling hills and farmland dotted with grazing cows. Along the way explore the Moulin de Marcy, an authentic water mill that still operates. It’s one of the few existing water mills fed from the top, with the weight of the water —instead of the current—making the wheel turn. Then pedal along a less hilly route to our hotel, La Chenevière, a warm and inviting manor house. This evening we gather for a brief orientation and a taste of Kir Normand (apple cider and cassis), an aperitif unique to the region. We’re then off to the dining room for our first French feast together.

Lodging: Château la Chenevière

It’s only natural to be moved by the memories of historic events that occurred along today’s route, but you might be surprised by the striking and calming landscape. Rugged cliffs, rambling beaches and quiet Norman farm villages provide the backdrop for our ride down the coast. Accompanied by local historian and guide Martine Gripari, we tour Omaha Beach, where more than 3,000 American troops were killed or wounded on June 6, 1944 during their attempts to reach the shore. As you stand on the broad peaceful beach, now frequented by carefree beachcombers and sightseers, it’s hard to imagine the grim scene that earned this spot the nickname "Bloody Omaha." High above the beach, powerful in its simplicity, you’ll find the American Military Cemetery at St-Laurent-sur-Mer, where 9,386 white marble markers stand in perfect rows. A colonnaded memorial displays maps and accounts of the D-Day landings. Inscribed on a wall behind the memorial are the names of 1,557 soldiers whose remains were never recovered. After taking it all in, pedal a short distance to our picnic spot, where we take a break over a meal of simple fresh local fare.

After lunch we visit the war-torn bunkers of the old German stronghold, Pointe du Hoc, situated atop the cliffs and riddled with shell holes. Then it’s a relaxing ride to the German cemetery whose dark granite grave markers provide a striking counterpoint to the gleaming white marble of the American cemetery. From here, hop on the shuttle or ride the Grandcamp-Maisy countryside option back to the hotel to relax at the pool before tonight’s multicourse meal of regional specialties.

Lodging: Château la Chenevière

Biking Options:

Pointe du Hoc Route: 19 Miles* (200’ elevation gain)

D-Day Le Choc Loop: 36 Miles (300’)

Grandcamp-Maisy Route: 46 Miles (400’) 

*with shuttle

This morning’s route to Arromanches traverses scenic waves of country roads. Pedal through the original German batteries at Longue-sur-Mer, an impressive display of intact German defenses. Then it’s downhill to seaside Arromanches and Gold Beach. Here stand the remains of Mulberry harbor, a temporary port constructed immediately after the D-Day Invasion—it’s a marvel of engineering that took just one week to complete. We highly recommend a visit to Musée du Débarquement, where you can join a memorable tour and learn everything about the Mulberry Harbors. Need a pick-me-up? How about a typical Norman snack of galettes (savory crêpes) or dessert crêpes?

From Arromanches you can continue directly to Bayeux or add more miles with a detour to Juno Beach, where Canadian troops landed on D-Day. On June 7, 1944, Bayeux became the first French town to be liberated from the Nazis, thus avoiding damage during the war. Take time to stop for lunch on your own at some point during your exploration of town. There’s much to see, including the Cathédral Notre-Dame, with origins dating back to 1077. Also check out the Bayeux Tapestry, a 230-foot-long embroidery that tells the story of the 1066 Norman invasion of England led by William the Conqueror. The battle is significant not only for marking the end of the Dark Ages in England, but for ushering in a 300-year stretch during which the rulers and nobility of England spoke French, not English! When you’re ready, climb back in the saddle for the short ride—only one more hill!—to our hotel for the night, the historic 18th-century Château d’Audrieu. Unless you decide to bike to Juno Beach, you’ll have free time before dinner to kick back in your room, take a dip in the pool or wander the forest trails in the 60-acre park surrounding the hotel.

Lodging: Château d’Audrieu

Biking Options:

Bayeux Route: 19 Miles* (260’ elevation gain) 

Audrieu Route: 27 Miles (300’)

Juno Beach Route: 43 Miles (350’) 

*with shuttle

This morning we get an early start and shuttle by coach to the island monastery and cathedral Mont-St-Michel, one of three main pilgrimage sites in Europe. Arriving before most tourists, our self-guided tour will give you a real sense of the power of these hallowed grounds, which have attracted the faithful from throughout the Christian world for centuries. From Mont -St-Michel, spin along a bike path and farm roads, relishing views of the island as well as the level terrain—the route is flat as a crêpe! For lunch on your own, we recommend moules frites (mussels and fries) at a restaurant along the beach.

In the afternoon bike through quaint Brittany villages en route to Mont Dol. For a grand view of the Bay du Mont-St-Michel, walk or bike up to the top. From Mont Dol, feel free get a lift to the hotel for some downtime or pedal there either directly or via the Beaufort Loop through the hills.

This evening we shuttle to the fortified city of St-Malo, which juts defiantly into the ocean. Once notorious as a refuge for corsairs (licensed pirates in the employ of the king), it now offers many charming—and welcoming—restaurants. Stroll the ramparts for unparalleled views of the Emerald Coast before sampling the local fare; dinner is on your own. Tonight’s hotel, Château Richeux, is renowned for its elegant interiors and views of the sea.

Lodging: Château Richeux

Shuttle to Mont-St-Michel: 1¼ Hours

Biking Options: 

Mont Dol Route: 20 Miles* (20’ elevation gain) 

Richeux Route: 27 Miles (100’) 

Beaufort Loop: 40 Miles (250’)  

*with shuttle

Following a leisurely breakfast, enjoy a peaceful ride through the Brittany countryside, peeking into quaint Breton villages along the way and passing over the locks that begin the intricate French canal system. We stop for a picnic lunch on the grounds of a beautiful 18thcentury farmhouse and old cider press. Take a moment to visit the cider museum and don’t miss the chance to sample the awardwinning homemade cider!

The afternoon portion of today’s ride offers terrific views along La Rance estuary and mellow hills. The last few miles trace a serene bike path beside the canal and into Dinan. This medieval hamlet is one of the best-preserved (and some say, the prettiest) towns in Brittany; meandering its cobblestone streets is a pleasant diversion from your bike. But if you’d prefer to get in as much riding as possible, continue with the long option, which rolls along a section of the Rance River and into the forest of Le Tronchet.

This evening we adjourn to our private dining room in Les Coquillages, the hotel’s refined restaurant, for a farewell dinner overlooking distant Mont-St-Michel.

Lodging: Château Richeux

Biking Options:

Cider Route: 17 Miles* (350’ elevation gain) 

Dinan Route: 27 Miles* (350’) 

Le Tronchet Loop: 55 Miles (380’)  

*with shuttle