Dordogne & Bordeaux Biking

On the first day of the trip, meet your Backroads Trip Leaders (the folks wearing Backroads T-shirts) at 1:15 p.m. at the Brive-la-Gaillarde train station. Please arrive dressed in your biking clothes and have your rain gear handy, or bring them in a small daypack so you can change before the ride.

Shuttle to St-Cyprien: 1 ½ Hours

Biking Options:

St-Cyprien Route: 13 Miles (300’ elevation gain)

Trémolat Route: 21 Miles (500’)

Welcome to the Dordogne! After meeting we shuttle to StCyprien, where your leaders fit your bike and give a brief talk on biking techniques and safety. We begin our week on two wheels heading west on picturesque country roads, passing walnut groves, tobacco fields and cozy villages. It’s a great introduction to this incredible part of France, a region steeped in charm, mystique and history.

Our home for the first two nights, Le Vieux Logis, is nestled in the beautiful village of Trémolat. Feel free to cool off in the hotel’s limestone pool or stroll through the gardens. Tonight we toast to the great week ahead before enjoying a relaxed dinner at nearby Le Bistro d’en Face. Don’t let the casual ambience fool you—the chef has earned his share of Michelin stars.

Lodging: Le Vieux Logis

Fuel up with breakfast before setting off on your bike into the undulating countryside. The route starts out with a nice stretch along the Dordogne River Valley floor before taking you over the hills and into the Vezère Valley. Pass quiet farmland and tranquil hamlets en route to Eyzies-de-Tayac, nicknamed “The Capital of Prehistory,” renowned worldwide for its wealth of prehistoric sites.

Enjoy lunch on your own before we regroup for a private tour of Les Eyzies’ famed centerpiece, the Grotte de Font-de-Gaume, a grotto containing one of the finest collections of polychromatic cave paintings on the planet. Images of horses, bulls and an enormous frieze of bison adorn the walls. After the tour, hop back on your bike for the tranquil ride back to the hotel. If you want more mileage, continue past Le Vieux Logis and tackle a hilly loop offering quiet roads, farms and river views.

Later we convene for an elaborate meal created by chef Vincent Arnould, lauded as one of France’s best culinary artists.

Lodging: Le Vieux Logis

Biking Options:

Les Eyzies Route: 22 Miles* (800’ elevation gain)

Prehistory Route: 39 Miles (1,700’)

Trémolat Loop: 48 Miles (1,970’)

*with shuttle

Today we relish the gorgeous scenery hidden among the hills above the city of Bergerac. Fertile fields line the rolling route that leads you from one charming village to the next and through shady sections of national forest. We stop at Le Quayre, a hilltop bed-and-breakfast, for a Périgordian feast prepared by our friend Monique and served in her beautiful garden overlooking the pastoral landscape.

After lunch, descend from the plateau back into the Dordogne River Valley. You’ll know we’re nearing Bordeaux by the ever-increasing expanse of vineyards. This area surrounding Bergerac, just east of Bordeaux, boasts some of France’s most luscious reds, rosés and whites. Spin past row upon row of maturing grapes and end with a climb to our hotel, Château des Vigiers, located outside of Monestier.

Settle into your elegant room and explore the grounds of this spectacular hotel. You may even have time for a lateafternoon round of golf or spa treatment (Spa treatments are not included in the trip price; see “During Your Trip” for more details on booking an appointment.) Dinner is at the château’s sophisticated restaurant, Les Fresques.

Lodging: Château des Vigiers

Biking Options:

Le Quayre Route: 24 Miles* (1,240’ elevation gain)

Gardonne Route: 42 Miles* (1,580’)

Bergerac Route: 49 Miles (1,680’)

 

*with shuttle

Ready to venture into the celebrated Bordeaux wine region? Jump in the saddle and savor your last stretch of riding along the gentle Dordogne River. Then roll along bucolic lanes and into hills that lead to a magnificent grapevine-laden landscape. Bike past some of the world’s best-known vineyards and through seemingly undiscovered towns replete with blooming gardens and friendly farmers. Check out the Gallo-Roman ruins in Montcaret and St-Michel-deMontaigne, birthplace of Renaissance philosopher and essayist Michel Eyquem de Montaigne. Once you’ve looked around, head across the street to the gardens of L’Olivier, where a gourmet lunch awaits.

In the afternoon, shuttle or pedal to St-Émilion, a charming medieval town in the heart of the Bordeaux region. This area has a prestige all its own thanks to its outstanding Grand Cru wines, bustling streets, remarkable monuments and distinguished architecture; in fact, it’s earned World Heritage status. If you’re feeling energetic, add a few miles to your ride and explore the famous Pomerol and St-Émilion Grand Cru Classé vineyards.

After retiring your bike for the day, make yourself comfortable at tonight’s hotel, Hostellerie de Plaisance, which combines authentic charm with modern elegance and superb views of St-Émilion and the lush Dordogne Valley. Later we join an expert oenologist for a private tasting at Vignobles & Châteaux, St-Emilion’s wine school. Then you’re on your own to discover a restaurant in town for dinner.

Lodging: Hostellerie de Plaisance

Biking Options:

Montcaret Route: 17 Miles* (800’ elevation gain)

St-Émilion Route: 24 Miles (1,200’)

Pomerol Route: 40 Miles (1,500’)

*with shuttle

Spend today discovering enchanting villages and verdant vineyards surrounding St-Émilion. Warm up your legs on a nice flat section before starting a long gradual climb to StGeorges and Montagne. Along the way feel free to take a breather and explore the churches and quaint hilltop towns. Continue pedaling across rolling hills and farmland through the satellite wine-producing communes of Lussac and Neac. Our stop at Premier Grand Cru Château de Beauséjour Bécot is ideally timed; after a tour of the winery and while our palate is still clean, we taste young vintages, and then enjoy a picnic on the grounds.

The afternoon ride descends from St-Émilion, curving through the walled-in vineyards of Château Canon and passing Château Pavie. Bike leisurely through several of the valley’s communities before a daunting climb leads you into the Côtes de Castillon. After cresting the hill and passing Château de Pitray, you can look forward to a shaded picturesque stretch featuring many interesting sights, including Romanesque churches, farms and reputable wineries.

If you’re craving additional miles and want to tackle serious ascents, take the extra loop past small villages and 12thcentury churches—you’ll still make it back in time to relax before dinner. Otherwise, rest at the hotel or venture into St-Émilion, home to a multitude of wine shops worth checking out. Also be sure to sample the macaroons of Madame Blanchez. A local specialty, the sweet and chewy cookies have been produced in St-Émilion since the 1600s.

This evening’s walking tour highlights the 8th-century cave dwelling of St-Émilion, the catacombs, and Église Monolithe, Europe’s largest monolithic church. Later we celebrate our week with a festive dinner at Hostellerie de Plaisance.

Lodging: Hostellerie de Plaisance

Biking Options:

Château de Beauséjour Bécot Route: 17 Miles

(500’ elevation gain)

St-Émilion Satellites Loop: 36 Miles (840’)

Romanesque Churches Route: 49 Miles (1,500’)

On this morning’s final spin, explore beautiful villages along St-Émilion’s network of intertwining roads. Soak it all in, perhaps taking some last photos of châteaux ruins, old mills and vineyards.

After freshening up at the hotel, we gather for a farewell lunch. Afterward we shuttle to the Bordeaux train station and say our goodbyes.

Grand Cru Loop 11 Miles (500’ elevation gain)

Shuttle to Bordeaux’s St-Jean Train Station 45 Minutes